Truth and Benefits with Chemical Peels

Truth and Benefits with Chemical Peels

Chemical Peels

by Pauli Morrow, MMSc, PA-C | Sep 23, 2022

With names like TCA, Jessner’s, glycolic acid, and salicylic acid, it’s easy to feel a little confused about chemical peels. What exactly do they do? Will your skin actually peel? And how do you know which one is right for you?

The good news? Chemical peels are one of the most versatile treatments for improving skin tone, texture, acne, and signs of aging. And not every peel involves days of shedding skin!

Let's break it down.

WHY GET A CHEMICAL PEEL?

Chemical peels are a great way to refresh your skin and address a variety of concerns, including:

  • Fine lines and early signs of aging
  • Sun damage and brown spots
  • Uneven skin tone and texture
  • Acne and clogged pores
  • Dull, rough skin
  • Certain types of hyperpigmentation, including melasma

By exfoliating damaged surface cells and encouraging skin renewal, chemical peels can leave your skin looking smoother, brighter, and more even-toned.

One of the biggest benefits? Chemical peels can be customized to your skin type, concerns, and desired downtime. Whether you're looking for a quick refresh or more noticeable correction, there's likely an option for you.

HOW DO CHEMICAL PEELS WORK?

Chemical peels use carefully selected acids to exfoliate the skin at a controlled depth. Depending on the type and strength of the peel, they remove damaged outer skin cells and stimulate the skin's natural renewal process.

As your skin heals and regenerates, you may notice:

  • Smoother, softer skin
  • Brighter, more even skin tone
  • Fewer clogged pores and breakouts
  • Improvement in superficial pigmentation
  • A reduction in the appearance of fine lines

And yes, your makeup may even go on more smoothly!

Some peels also help improve the appearance of acne-prone skin by clearing clogged pores and reducing surface buildup.

WHAT ARE THE DIFFERENT TYPES OF CHEMICAL PEELS?

Not all chemical peels are created equal. They range from gentle, superficial treatments to more intensive peels that reach deeper layers of the skin.

Light or Superficial Peels:

These are the most common peels for routine skin maintenance and generally have minimal downtime.

They work primarily within the epidermis (the outermost layer of skin), removing dead surface cells and improving skin texture and tone.

Best for: Dullness, mild pigmentation, acne, clogged pores, and early signs of aging.

Common examples include glycolic acid, salicylic acid, and certain combination peels.

You may experience mild redness, dryness, or flaking for a few days, but many people return to their normal activities immediately.

These are also popular before special occasions, although I recommend scheduling your first peel well in advance of an important event so you know how your skin responds.

Medium-Depth Peels:

Medium-depth peels penetrate beyond the epidermis into the upper dermis, providing more significant resurfacing.

Best for: More noticeable sun damage, uneven pigmentation, and certain fine lines.

TCA (trichloroacetic acid) is commonly used in medium-depth peels, although the depth depends on its concentration, formulation, and application technique.

With these peels, you can expect more noticeable redness, peeling, and downtime, often around 7–10 days.

Deep Chemical Peels:

Deep peels reach further into the dermis and are reserved for select cases involving more advanced skin damage or wrinkles.

They require significantly more recovery time and carry greater risks, including prolonged redness, pigment changes, and scarring.

Because of these risks, deep peels require careful patient selection and specialized medical supervision.

The takeaway: A stronger peel isn't necessarily a better peel. The best treatment is the one that safely addresses your skin concerns with an appropriate amount of downtime.

HOW SHOULD I PREPARE FOR A CHEMICAL PEEL?

A little preparation can make a big difference in your results.

Before your appointment:

  • Pause retinoids when instructed. Products containing tretinoin (Retin-A), retinol, adapalene (Differin), or other retinoids may need to be discontinued approximately 5–7 days before treatment, depending on your skin and the peel.
  • Avoid irritating treatments. Hold off on exfoliating scrubs, strong acids, waxing, and other potentially irritating products as directed.
  • Protect your skin from the sun. Avoid tanning and excessive sun exposure before your appointment.
  • Let us know if you get cold sores. Chemical peels can trigger a herpes simplex outbreak in susceptible patients. We may recommend preventive antiviral medication, particularly with more intensive peels.
  • Share your skincare routine and medical history. Certain medications, recent procedures, skin conditions, and a history of pigment changes may affect which peel is appropriate.

If you're unsure about a product, bring it to your appointment or ask us beforehand.

WHAT HAPPENS DURING A CHEMICAL PEEL?

The procedure is usually straightforward, and most superficial peels can be completed relatively quickly.

First, your skin is thoroughly cleansed to remove makeup, oils, and impurities. Depending on the peel, a protective ointment may be applied around sensitive areas, such as the corners of your nose, lips, and eyes.

Next, the peel solution is carefully applied to your skin.

You may notice a warm, tingling, prickly, or mildly stinging sensation. A handheld fan can help keep you comfortable.

The solution is then neutralized, removed, or left on according to the specific peel protocol. Not all chemical peels require neutralization.

Finally, we'll apply appropriate soothing skincare and sun protection, along with instructions for caring for your skin at home.

And that's it! With lighter peels, you can often get right back to your day.

WILL MY SKIN ACTUALLY PEEL?

This is one of the most common questions I hear!

The answer is: Not necessarily.

Some chemical peels cause visible flaking or shedding, while others create changes at the cellular level without obvious peeling.

And here's something important to remember: More peeling does not automatically mean better results.

What to Expect After a Light Peel

Your skin may feel slightly tight, dry, or sensitive, similar to a mild sunburn.

If flaking occurs, it often begins around days 2–3 and may last several days.

Some patients experience very little visible peeling at all.

What to Expect After a Medium-Depth Peel

You can expect more noticeable redness, tightness, temporary darkening, and peeling as the treated skin sheds.

Recovery typically takes about 7–10 days, although redness or sensitivity may last longer.

Deeper treatments require more extensive aftercare and follow-up.

HOW DO I CARE FOR MY SKIN AFTER A CHEMICAL PEEL?

Proper aftercare is essential for healthy healing and beautiful results.

Here are my recommendations:

  • Keep it gentle. Wash with a mild, non-exfoliating cleanser.
  • Moisturize frequently. Use a bland, fragrance-free moisturizer such as Vanicream or CeraVe, or a recommended healing ointment when appropriate.
  • Don't pick or peel! As tempting as it may be, pulling at flaking skin can lead to irritation, discoloration, or scarring.
  • Take a break from active skincare. Avoid retinoids, exfoliating acids, scrubs, and potentially irritating anti-aging products until your skin has healed and your provider clears you to restart.
  • Avoid excess heat and irritation. Skip hot tubs, saunas, intense exercise, and swimming until recommended by your provider.
  • Hold off on waxing and other exfoliating treatments until your skin has fully recovered.
  • Be diligent about sun protection. Avoid direct sun exposure during healing and wear a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher daily.

I especially love mineral-based sunscreens containing zinc oxide, including tinted formulations that provide additional visible-light protection, which can be helpful for patients prone to pigmentation.

If you develop significant pain, blistering, spreading redness, or other unexpected symptoms, contact your provider promptly.

Remember, aftercare instructions can vary depending on the type and depth of your peel, so always follow the specific recommendations provided at your appointment.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD I GET A CHEMICAL PEEL?

That depends on your skin concerns, the type of peel, and your treatment goals.

For superficial peels, I often recommend a series of treatments spaced approximately 2–4 weeks apart, although some protocols require longer intervals.

For concerns such as acne, pigmentation, or uneven texture, a series may produce better results than a single treatment.

Once you've achieved your desired improvement, maintenance peels can help keep your skin looking its best.

Medium-depth peels are generally performed less frequently, with longer recovery intervals.

WHICH CHEMICAL PEEL IS RIGHT FOR ME?

There isn't one perfect peel for everyone.

At Evolution Dermatology + Wellness, we offer several options, including salicylic acid, glycolic acid, and specialized combination peels such as The Perfect Derma Peel and PRX.

Each has different benefits, from addressing acne and congestion to improving uneven tone, dullness, and visible signs of aging.

Your skin type, sensitivity, pigmentation history, and lifestyle all play a role in choosing the right treatment.

And if you're looking for a treatment with little to no visible peeling, ask us about our PRX Glass Skin treatment, which offers a different approach to skin rejuvenation.

READY FOR BRIGHTER, SMOOTHER SKIN?

Chemical peels are one of my favorite ways to refresh the skin, improve texture, and address common concerns like acne and sun damage.

Whether you're new to peels or looking to take your skincare routine to the next level, we'll help you find the right treatment for your skin.

Explore our chemical peel treatments or schedule an appointment at Evolution Dermatology + Wellness in Boulder, Colorado.

Happy Peeling!