Treatments + Products to Increase Collagen Production

Treatments + Products to Increase Collagen Production

by | Feb 29, 2024 | Ageless skin, Collagen Stimulating Treatments, Healthy Skin, Skin Treatments

The fact that your skin changes over time comes at no surprise—but do you know exactly how?

There are two important components that contribute to this change; they are collagen and elastin.  These components of your skin help keep facial lines and wrinkles at bay and improve the quality of your skin. When you improve the quality of your skin, it will appear healthy and youthful.

There are many cosmetic treatments to help with the aging process, like Botox (and other neurotoxins) that stop muscle contraction to reduce wrinkles, or dermal fillers that replace volume that we lose over time.

However, here I describe ways to help your skin appear more radiant that can be done with or without volumizing fillers and toxins.  It’s all about improving the health of your skin!

What is collagen and elastin?

At the core of skin health is collagen and elastin. Collagen is the main structural protein, which acts like scaffolding and provides plumpness to your skin. Elastin allows your skin to be flexible and helps it keep its shape even after stretching or pinching. Both of these proteins are important to maintain skin quality and integrity. This is why collagen and elastin stimulating treatments are considered both preventative and corrective in anti-aging terms

Why does collagen and elastin decrease in our skin?

Collagen is produced throughout our lives, but the amount begins to reduce in our 20’s.  Elastin production stops around puberty.  Some factors can increase the breakdown of collagen, like excessive sun exposure, pollution and smoking.  This loss makes your skin appear thinner and have less structural support, which is why people begin to notice drooping or sagging of their skin. For youthful skin, it is important to both preserve the collagen you have and stimulate your skin to produce it faster.

What are in-office treatments you can do to boost collagen and elastin production?

There are many treatments at our office that work to stimulate collagen and elastin production.  Which one you choose may depend on your specific concerns, downtime, cost, or what your goals are.  Here is some great information about how in-office treatments improve the quality of your skin, but if you are not sure which one is the best choice for you, come in for a cosmetic consultation.

Here are 6 in-office treatments that can increase collagen and elastin:

1) Radiesse

Radiesse was approved by the FDA as a facial filler at the end of 2006 and has been used as a volumizing filler since. However, it can be used as a biostimulant in your skin rather than just a filler when saline and lidocaine are added to Radiesse.  This mixture triggers the body to produce new collagen and elastin so that you get immediate results plus long-term improvement. The benefits of this treatment are skin tightening and thickening, reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and crepiness. Overall, skin tone, texture and elasticity can be markedly improved!

2) Microneedling

Microneedling is a procedure where a device with fine needles is moved across your skin.  The needles puncture the top layer of the skin and create a controlled skin injury to improve skin texture and promote collagen growth. Once this micro-injury is created with the needles, your body is stimulated to produce new collagen to fill them in as part of the healing process. This new collagen can make your skin look smoother, tighter, and more youthful.  It can also help diminish acne scars.

3) PRP (Platelet Rich Plasma)

PRP therapy is used in many aspects of medicine. PRP is a serum that results from your own blood that can amplify the natural growth factors in your body and stimulate the growth of new cells. At Evolution Dermatology, we use PRP as injections and topical application to diminish wrinkles, improve skin quality and help treat acne scars

4) Opus Plasma Resurfacing

This procedure uses fractionated plasma energy to resurface your skin and deliver effects similar to a deep resurfacing treatment without the downtime. The Opus device uses both radio frequency energy and plasma to create fractional injuries on the surface of your skin tissue regeneration and collagen remodeling

5) Sofwave

Sofwave is a clinically-proven, non-invasive approach to rebuilding collagen and elastin to tighten and improve facial lines and wrinkles. This procedure uses ultrasound energy to pass through the surface of your skin, heating the mid-dermal tissue at just the right depth to stimulate new collagen and elastin production. With no downtime, Sofwave works to enhance and rejuvenate your skin quality and firmness.

6) Chemical Peels

These use hydroxy acids (like glycolic, lactic acids) to boost skin cell turnover, which in turn stimulates collagen production. You can see immediate benefits from chemical peels, as they can help with tone and texture, giving you an instant glow.  These are best done in a series done monthly to get the most collagen regeneration and longer lasting results.

What skin care products can help?

These clinically proven skin care products are a great way to add nourishment to your skin and promote healthy collagen and elastin.

Here are the 3 main topical powerhouses…

1) Prescription Tretinoin (known by the brand name Retin-A):

Applied in the evening to your skin, this vitamin A derivative upregulates genes involved in collagen production while it exfoliates to encourage collagen and new healthy skin cells. Tretinoin and retinoids have been proven for years to be a gold standard in anti-aging skin care as stated in this publication here in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology. Just ask when you are in the office if this might be a good skin care topical treatment for you!

2) Vitamin C Serum:

Protect collagen with topical vitamin C.  Slather on a vitamin C serum in the morning. This vitamin is a strong antioxidant that protects the collagen in your skin against UV damage. More than that, it triggers collagen formation and stabilizes the collagen proteins in skin. Has been studied for years proving its effectiveness.  At Evolution Dermatology we have a vitamin C serum that also has ferulic acid and vitamin E to add antioxidant power with a hydrating hyaluronic acid base.

Evolve Vitamin C Serum from Evolution Dermatology in Boulder CO
Evolve Vitamin C Serum

3) Sunscreen:

Sunscreen is vital for skin cancer prevention — but also for keeping skin young and springy. UV exposure can lead to the breakdown of collagen, which can lead to the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, so you’re never too young to start wearing sunscreen every day. Choose a broad-spectrum sunscreen with SPF 30 or higher and don’t forget to cover your neck, ears and chest too!

There is no magic bullet when we talk about aesthetic treatments and skin care.  No one treatment or product does everything. It is about combining treatments and products depending on your skin type and your specific goals.

Beauty Sleep: The Importance Of Shut-Eye for Your Skin

Beauty Sleep: The Importance Of Shut-Eye for Your Skin

by | Jul 7, 2022 | Ageless skin, Skincare, Sleep

Beauty Sleep: The Importance Of Shut-Eye for Your Skin

WHY IS SLEEP IMPORTANT FOR YOUR SKIN?

If your life is busy and you find yourself always multitasking, this is good news for you! While you are getting some much needed shut-eye, you’re getting plenty accomplished for your skin while you sleep!  When it comes to a healthy routine for your skin, a good night’s sleep may be the most powerful treatment.

At night, your body and skin have precious time to repair and recover. Your skin cells are regenerating while your facial muscles are relaxing. These renewing hours are when your skin has the most time shielded from the exposure to potential UV (sun) damage, environmental stresses and pollutants, and is clean of occlusive makeup or sunscreen. Your skin is simply focused on repairing itself instead of defending itself. Are you giving your skin it’s due time to rest and rejuvenate?

WHAT HAPPENS WITH SKIN CELL PRODUCTION AND REPAIR WHILE I’M SLEEPING?

THE CHANGES IN THESE HORMONES HAVE A BIG IMPACT ON THE HEALTH OF YOUR SKIN:

  • CORTISOL
  • HUMAN GROWTH HORMONE (HGH)
  • MELATONIN

Cortisol is a stress hormone that naturally decreases while you sleep.  This is a good thing because the lower levels allow your skin to regenerate and heal from the day. When you lose out on sleep, your body makes more cortisol which will interfere with your body’s healing process and contribute to inflammation. That’s why it is known as a “stress hormone”! At high levels, cortisol can actually break down collagen. This will accelerate the aging process and hurt the quality of your skin.  

At night, your body makes human growth hormone (HGH), which functions to stimulate skin cell production. So if you are not sleeping like you should, HGH is lower and you lose out on collagen and new cell production. Your skin will be thinner and can result in more noticeable signs of aging and skin laxity.

Most of us know a little about melatonin. It’s a hormone that increases when you are sleeping. But did you know that this also has an impact on your skin? Melatonin is a skin-protecting antioxidant. We need melatonin to help repair damaged skin cells.

If you are skimping out on sleep, these changes in hormones can cause a decrease in cell production and repair and increase in inflammation, which leads to a breakdown of collagen with no new cell growth.  Bottom line: Your skin loses it’s glow and bounce.

WHAT ARE OTHER CHANGES IN MY SKIN IF I’M NOT GETTING ENOUGH SLEEP?

TWO BIG CHANGES THAT HAPPEN WITH DECREASED SHUT-EYE ARE ALTERED BLOOD FLOW IN YOUR SKIN AND INCREASED MOISTURE LOSS.

CHANGES IN BLOOD FLOW:

Blood flow to the skin increases while you snooze, which means you wake to a healthy glow. On the flip side, if you have poor sleep habits, inflammation in the body is increased and this causes capillaries to constrict affecting the flow of nutrients to the skin.

When you’re tired and losing out on sleep, blood doesn’t flow efficiently and your skin will look dull.

INCREASED MOISTURE LOSS:

Toward the end of the day and into the night you are losing the most water from your skin (officially called trans-epidermal water loss). In fact, your skin loses about 25% more water overnight than during the day! However, if you are not sleeping inflammation will occur in the skin, causing an imbalance and more water loss. This will lead to under eye circles, dryness and more visible wrinkles.

Prevent moisture loss by applying a heavier moisturizer (one with hyaluronic acid is best!) before bed to help you wake up with soft, hydrated skin.  I use Epionce Renewal Cream.

WHY DO I GET DARK CIRCLES/PUFFY EYES?

When you’re horizontal at night, fluid naturally wants to pool in the trough under your eyes. Missing out on z’s causes a change in blood flow to your skin making this condition worse. Try sleeping on an extra pillow to keep your head elevated, make sure limit your salt intake after lunchtime, and limit cocktails before bed. Salt and alcohol both encourage swelling.

In the morning, one trick is to dab on an eye gel with caffeine to temporarily tighten the skin.  Or place two soaked green tea bags (these are especially great if you freeze them the night before) under your eyes for about 5 minutes to reduce the puffiness. Better yet, hit the sheets earlier and avoid tired puffy eyes altogether!

CAN THE INCREASED INFLAMMATION CAUSED BY LACK OF SLEEP MAKE OTHER SKIN CONDITIONS WORSE?

YES!

Conditions like:  acne breakouts, seborrheic dermatitis, eczema and psoriasis can flare with lack of sleep.  

Late nights will increase your cortisol levels and put your skin in a pro-inflammatory state. This stress can mess with the protective outer layer of skin that keeps moisture in and bad stuff like bacteria out. The disruption in the skin barrier can lead to skin sensitivity, red inflammation and scale triggering acne breakouts and flares of dermatitis and psoriasis.  

WHAT CAN I DO TO HELP GET SOME Z’S?

HERE ARE 3 THINGS TO KEEP IN MIND WHEN TRYING TO GET A GOOD NIGHT’S SLEEP.

AVOID ALCOHOL WITHIN AN HOUR OR 2 OF GOING TO SLEEP:

Alcohol is known to be a REM sleep inhibitor. The REM stage of sleep is when you are in a deep sleep and when cell regeneration happens. This is the most important stage of sleep for your body to rest and recover.

Alcohol temporarily binds to the GABA receptors in your brain, making you feel relaxed and drowsy. But once this wears off, you can have a rebound effect that is stimulating or even anxiety provoking!  Even though drinking alcohol can make you sleepy, it impacts your quality of sleep.
 

REDUCE BLUE LIGHT EXPOSURE BEFORE BEDTIME:

We all are pretty aware of what blue light is these days. It is the light emitted by light bulbs, your phone, computer and iPad.  So as you read this you are exposed. Even if you dim the brightness on your device, the blue spectrum of light can have an impact on you. Blue light suppresses melatonin production for more than twice as long as other light wavelengths and disrupts your normal circadian rhythm.  So limit your device time to 90 minutes prior to sleepy time.

You can limit your exposure by:

Limiting the blue light spectrum in the evening will help with a good night’s sleep and good skin too!

GO OUT AND GET SOME EXERCISE:

You may be someone who is getting enough exercise each day. This is one of the best ways to make sure you are tired enough to get quality z’s. Exercising releases endorphins that help release and reduce stress. After a day of good exercise, you will be less stressed and more tired and set up for a good night’s sleep.

WHAT IS A GOOD NIGHTTIME SKIN CARE ROUTINE?

If you miss out on those much needed z’s the best way to fight back and keep your skin healthy is to establish a good evening skincare routine.  

LEARN ABOUT WHEN TO APPLY YOUR SKIN CARE PRODUCTS

Why Sunscreen is the Secret Sauce

Why Sunscreen is the Secret Sauce

by | Mar 17, 2022 | Ageless skin, Skincare, Sun Damage, Sunscreen

Why Sunscreen is the Secret Sauce

Can you believe that the best tool out there for ageless skin is inexpensive, easy to use and is probably already sitting in your bathroom?

This fabulous secret sauce is sunscreen! Not only does sunscreen prevent sunburn and skin cancer – It can preserve and may even reverse the visible signs of sun damage. A whopping 90% of the visible signs of aging (including hyperpigmentation, broken blood vessels, sagging skin and wrinkles) are caused by sun exposure.

WHAT EXACTLY IS SUNSCREEN?

Sunscreens combine several ingredients to help prevent the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) radiation from reaching your fragile skin. The SPF label only indicates how much UVB protection you are getting.  UVB is what can lead to sunburn, while UVA rays penetrate the skin on a deeper level and can cause leathery skin, wrinkling and brown spots and increases the carcinogenic effects of UVB rays – leading to an increased risk of skin cancer.  Look for the label “broad-spectrum” to make sure it has ingredients that protect against UVA and UVB.

WHAT DOES SPF MEAN?

Sun Protective Factor.  It is a measure of a sunscreen’s ability to prevent UVB rays from damaging your skin.  Here is how the number of SPF is determined:  If it takes 10 minutes for your skin normally get sunburned, using an SPF 30 sunscreen theoretically prevents sunburn 30 times longer — about 5 hours.  The only problem is that sunscreen does not stay effective longer than 2 hours.  So during that 5 hour period, you would need to be reapplying the SPF 30 every 2 hours.  Another way to look at the SPF is what percentage of rays it is blocking.  SPF 15 filters about 93% of UVB rays, whereas SPF 30 is 97% and SPF 50 can keep out about 98%.  But keep in mind the time of day you are in the sun.  The sun is stronger in the middle of the day compared to early morning and early evening hours. That means your risk of sunburn is a lot higher in the middle of the day. The sun’s intensity is also related to geographic location, with greater sunburn risk at higher altitudes.  So with Boulder, CO at 5430 feet elevation, the sun is much more intense!

WHY WEAR IT EVERYDAY, ALL DAY AND LOTS OF IT?

So you don’t end up like this guy:

clear trucker.jpg

This is a 69 year old truck driver. He has left sided sun damage from driving a truck for 28 years.  No sunscreen was used here!

Sunscreen is not just for the beach.  Sun damage is cumulative and each minute you get (even driving down the road or walking to lunch) adds to destruction of healthy cells in your skin.

-Sunscreen decreases your risk of skin cancer.  Skin cancer is the #1 form of cancer in the US!

-Using sunscreen sets an example for your kids.

-No excuses, it’s more convenient than ever!  You can choose between creams, sticks, sprays and even powders.  And now that the zinc particles are micronized – there is less of that white mask look.

-It will keep your skin looking youthful and decrease wrinkles and leathery skin

 

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL/MINERAL SUNSCREENS?

Mineral sunscreens contain either zinc or titanium or both.  The minerals create a barrier between skin and the sun’s rays instead of absorbing them (like the chemical SPFs).  Many brands realize we don’t want white faces and have micronized the mineral particles (sometimes called nanoparticals) to reduce chalkiness.  BTW – if you have heard that the smaller particles are a concern because they might enter the bloodstream and cause harm – this theory has been disproved.  Experts agree that these mineral small particles are safe. Mineral sunscreens are great if you have sensitive skin or worry about absorbing the chemicals in non-mineral SPF.  Zinc is actually a natural anti-inflammatory and believe it or not is the main ingredient in diaper cream for this reason!

Chemical sunscreens use UVB absorbers like homosalate, octisalate or octocrylene in addition to avobenzone, which absorbs UVA rays.  One of the UVB absorbers, oxybenzone, has had a bit of controversy.  It is a chemical that messes with our hormones and may actually increase our risk of skin cancer.  So read those labels!

WHAT SPF SHOULD I WEAR?

The simple answer is a broad-spectrum (to protect you from both UVA and UVB rays) that is an SPF 30 or higher.  However, on days that you are mostly inside wear its okay to wear a moisturizer with SPF 15 or 30.  But when you are not inside all day and running around, make sure to wear an SPF of close to SPF 50.  Anyone who knows me knows that I don’t leave the house without sunscreen on my face, neck and chest…everyday.

WHAT TYPE OF SUNSCREEN IS BEST FOR YOU?

The one you will use!

Spray:

Easy to apply and good for squirmy kids.  Make sure you use a lot to fully get coverage and try not to breath it in.  Watch out if you have sensitive skin – a lot of these can be irritating and cause rashes.

Moisturizer with built-in sunscreen:

This is great for everyday and when you are indoors most of the day.  They tend to be lighter and easy to apply with SPFs around 15 and 20.  You will need additional SPF if you plan to spend time outside.

Mineral/Physical Blocks:

These contain zinc or titanium and are perfect for sensitive skin.  They sit on top of the skin and act as a blocker with little to no irritation.  These are especially great if you have melasma.

Sweat/Water Resistant:

The FDA no longer allows the terms “waterproof” or “sweat-proof”.  So you will find only “water-resistant” on the label.  These are made to stay on the skin if you are wet or sweaty – but know that they still have to be applied every 2 hours to be effective.  They are usually formulated with a bit more oil, silicones (like dimethacone), or a film polymer (like sodium polycrylate) to give them the staying power when water is involved.  Interestingly, a study came out recently that found water-resistant sunscreens were less effective in chlorinated pools than in salt water.  The chemicals in the chlorinated water can disintegrate the active ingredients.  Best to reapply after every swim session!

Powders:

These are the BEST for reapplication.  You can leave one in your purse and reapply before that afternoon hike.

DO SUNSCREENS EXPIRE?

Yes.  They are required by the FDA to last about 3 years.  Check the label for an expiration date.  But realize that they can breakdown with heat.  If you have been leaving the sunscreen in your hot car all summer, it probably needs to be tossed.

WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH MAKING SURE YOU GET ENOUGH VITAMIN D?

Vitamin D is super important for strong bones and a good immune system.  It’s fine to get some of your vit D from the sun’s UV radiation – but limit it and keep your face and chronically exposed areas out of the mix.  The Skin Cancer Foundation suggests that you get your recommended daily 600 IU of vit D from food sources like fish and cereals or from supplements.

PROTECTION POINTERS:

  • Apply at least 20 minutes before getting into the sun (the chemical ones take that long to absorb).
  • Reapply, reapply and reapply… every 2 hours and after chlorinated pool swims.
  • With sticks, you need to apply 4 passes to get effective protection – so rub that stuff all over!
  • If you have sensitive skin – stick to mineral sunscreens to avoid chemical irritation.
  • Keep sunscreen somewhere convenient – by the front door, in your gym bag or purse.  But avoid keeping in your car so that the heat doesn’t degrade the active ingredients.
  • Make sure to cover your lips – especially your lower lip because it is 12 times more likely to be affected by skin cancer.
  • By the way – I have heard some chatter from sunscreen skeptics and natural-types who feel you can skip sunscreen altogether and use more “natural” oils like coconut, raspberry seed and carrot seed.  But know that these only provide a small protection (about SPF 4) against UVB rays and no protection against UVA.  So best not to count on these when out playing in the sun.