Reverse the Signs of Weathering and Sun Damage with IPL?

by Pauli Morrow | Jul 7, 2022 | IPL, Sun Damage

Reverse the Signs of Weathering and Sun Damage with IPL?

Is it possible to get rid of sun damage, red vessels, and brown spots?

IPL is one of the best treatments to do just that!

But What the heck is IPL? And Can it work for you?

I’m sure you have some memories of playing or relaxing in the sun … warm, fun, on the sandy beach or maybe boating or playing at the pool. But all that fabulous sun can leave you with some unwanted sun damage. Evidence of sun exposure can show up as blotchiness, freckles, brown pigment, and small blood vessels (telangiectasia) on your face, neck, and chest and even brown spots on the backs of your hands.

This is what the IPL machine looks like.

WHAT EXACTLY IS IPL?

The primary goal of IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) is to make your skin tone or color more even. It was approved by the FDA in 1995, and is a quick and powerful flash of light that is similar to laser. But instead of a single wavelength of light as with a laser, IPL uses a broad spectrum of light that is selective for pigment and small blood vessels (or redness). The light energy penetrates just below the skin’s surface and destroys either the brown pigment or red blood vessels – but leaves your surrounding normal skin alone. Pretty cool technology!

COULD I BENEFIT FROM IPL TREATMENTS?

Anyone with photodamage that appears as blotchiness, discoloration, brown spots, or small blood vessels (telangiectasia) could benefit from IPL procedures. Additionally, one of the most gratified groups of patients that see results are those with rosacea, a type of adult acne and skin inflammation. The IPL can reduce the acne component of rosacea, telangiectasia, generalized redness, and even flushing.

BOTTOM LINE … FLUSHING, SMALL VESSELS, BROWN SPOTS, DISCOLORATION AND ACNE CAN BE IMPROVED WITH IPL!

A side benefit from multiple treatments (approx. 3-5) with IPL is that it also can help reduce pore size and improve skin texture and laxity by promoting collagen production. The light not only has an impact on the surface of the skin but also heats the cells in the deeper layer of skin. These cells, called fibroblasts, are stimulated to produce more collagen, which improves texture and skin laxity. Nice side benefit!

WHAT AREAS CAN BE TREATED?

Your face, neck, chest, backs of hands, and sometimes arms (depending on your skin type – you must have fair skin for the arms).

WHAT DO I NEED TO DO BEFORE I BOOK AN IPL SESH?

Make sure you don’t have tanned skin (even a fake one), as that’ll mess with the machine’s ability to target the unwanted pigment. And it helps NOT to wear makeup when you arrive for your appointment (especially mascara – it tends to get everywhere with the eye shields).

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT LIKE? WILL IT HURT?!

Here is how it goes down at our office…

You will be asked to arrive about 15 minutes before your treatment time and topical numbing cream will be placed on the area to be treated. Once you are comfortable and numb, I will take the cream off and place eye shields over your eyes. Next cold gel (actually ultrasound gel) goes on the area. I’ll talk to you during the procedure so that you know what is going on (since you have on eye shields).

The IPL handpiece has a clear rectangular, flat crystal that is placed on your skin with each pulse of light. The pulse is a hot, sharp snap. And I won’t lie – it hurts a bit, but is mostly startling because of the bright light. It takes about 15-20 minutes for a full face to be treated. Sometimes I will use multiple passes and settings depending on what we are treating.

After the treatment, I’ll take off the gel, remove the eye shields, clean your face (or whichever area we are treating) a bit and rub on a soothing firming mask. Lastly, I add a tinted mineral sunscreen before you leave. If you bring makeup, you can also put that on before you are on your way.

WHAT WILL I LOOK LIKE JUST AFTER A TREATMENT? IS THERE DOWNTIME?

This is what your brown pigment/spots may look like after the treatment. Almost like coffee grounds. Makeup can be applied on top because the skin is not broken at all.

Immediately after the treatment the area will be red (like a sunburn) in some areas and any brown pigment or spots will look darker brown. But the advantage is that there is NO broken skin. NO scabs or open areas to care for.

SO ULTIMATELY THAT MEANS THERE IS LITTLE TO NO DOWNTIME!

The red areas will look better in a few hours. Any of the brown pigment will turn darker brown and the next day will be small crusts that look similar to coffee grounds. The darker areas will last 7-10 days before falling off or fading away. One secret is that after a week if you still have the coffee ground look, you can DIY a paste of baking soda and water and GENTLY exfoliate them off.

Very rarely, someone will experience swelling under their eyes and upper cheeks the next morning after the treatment. If this happens, it may last 5-7 days at the most. Another rare possibility is a bruise. This can happen when blood vessels are treated, but resolves on its own in a few days.

ARE THERE NEGATIVE COMPLICATIONS THAT CAN HAPPEN?

IPL is safe and the technology has been perfected over the 20+ years it has been around. But for an operator who isn’t experienced with using IPL, it can be tricky because the IPL uses heat to do its thing. If a wrong setting or energy intensity is used, you could end up with burns that can cause permanent discoloration and scars. I have heard multiple horror stories from those that went to someone who didn’t have enough experience.

To have the best outcome, you need to see someone who knows the machine well and what settings to use. Make sure to do your research before diving in!

HOW MANY TREATMENTS WILL I NEED?

Some people see great results after the first session, but usually 3 to 5 sessions are recommended, one month apart.

HOW DO I MAINTAIN MY RESULTS?

To maintain results, it is recommended to have an IPL treatment once to twice a year.

Of course, for maintenance, it’s also crazy important to protect your skin from the sun by wearing SPF 30 to 50 always!

One of my favorite sunscreens to use after IPL is SkinCeuticals. Both will not cause stinging or irritation on sensitive post-procedure skin.

Why Sunscreen is the Secret Sauce

by Pauli Morrow | Mar 17, 2022 | Ageless skin, Skincare, Sun Damage, Sunscreen

Why Sunscreen is the Secret Sauce

Can you believe that the best tool out there for ageless skin is inexpensive, easy to use and is probably already sitting in your bathroom?

This fabulous secret sauce is sunscreen! Not only does sunscreen prevent sunburn and skin cancer – It can preserve and may even reverse the visible signs of sun damage. A whopping 90% of the visible signs of aging (including hyperpigmentation, broken blood vessels, sagging skin and wrinkles) are caused by sun exposure.

WHAT EXACTLY IS SUNSCREEN?

Sunscreens combine several ingredients to help prevent the sun’s ultraviolet (UV) radiation from reaching your fragile skin. The SPF label only indicates how much UVB protection you are getting. UVB is what can lead to sunburn, while UVA rays penetrate the skin on a deeper level and can cause leathery skin, wrinkling and brown spots and increases the carcinogenic effects of UVB rays – leading to an increased risk of skin cancer. Look for the label “broad-spectrum” to make sure it has ingredients that protect against UVA and UVB.

WHAT DOES SPF MEAN?

Sun Protective Factor. It is a measure of a sunscreen’s ability to prevent UVB rays from damaging your skin. Here is how the number of SPF is determined: If it takes 10 minutes for your skin normally get sunburned, using an SPF 30 sunscreen theoretically prevents sunburn 30 times longer — about 5 hours. The only problem is that sunscreen does not stay effective longer than 2 hours. So during that 5 hour period, you would need to be reapplying the SPF 30 every 2 hours. Another way to look at the SPF is what percentage of rays it is blocking. SPF 15 filters about 93% of UVB rays, whereas SPF 30 is 97% and SPF 50 can keep out about 98%. But keep in mind the time of day you are in the sun. The sun is stronger in the middle of the day compared to early morning and early evening hours. That means your risk of sunburn is a lot higher in the middle of the day. The sun’s intensity is also related to geographic location, with greater sunburn risk at higher altitudes. So with Boulder, CO at 5430 feet elevation, the sun is much more intense!

WHY WEAR IT EVERYDAY, ALL DAY AND LOTS OF IT?

So you don’t end up like this guy:

clear trucker.jpg — This is a 69 year old truck driver. He has left sided sun damage from driving a truck for 28 years. No sunscreen was used here!

Sunscreen is not just for the beach. Sun damage is cumulative and each minute you get (even driving down the road or walking to lunch) adds to destruction of healthy cells in your skin.

-Sunscreen decreases your risk of skin cancer. Skin cancer is the #1 form of cancer in the US!

-Using sunscreen sets an example for your kids.

-No excuses, it’s more convenient than ever! You can choose between creams, sticks, sprays and even powders. And now that the zinc particles are micronized – there is less of that white mask look.

-It will keep your skin looking youthful and decrease wrinkles and leathery skin

WHAT IS THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN CHEMICAL AND PHYSICAL/MINERAL SUNSCREENS?

Mineral sunscreens contain either zinc or titanium or both. The minerals create a barrier between skin and the sun’s rays instead of absorbing them (like the chemical SPFs). Many brands realize we don’t want white faces and have micronized the mineral particles (sometimes called nanoparticals) to reduce chalkiness. BTW – if you have heard that the smaller particles are a concern because they might enter the bloodstream and cause harm – this theory has been disproved. Experts agree that these mineral small particles are safe. Mineral sunscreens are great if you have sensitive skin or worry about absorbing the chemicals in non-mineral SPF. Zinc is actually a natural anti-inflammatory and believe it or not is the main ingredient in diaper cream for this reason.

Chemical sunscreens use UVB absorbers like homosalate, octisalate or octocrylene in addition to avobenzone, which absorbs UVA rays. One of the UVB absorbers, oxybenzone, has had a bit of controversy. It is a chemical that interfers with our hormones and may actually increase our risk of skin cancer. So read those labels!

WHAT SPF SHOULD I WEAR?

The simple answer is a broad-spectrum (to protect you from both UVA and UVB rays) that is an SPF 30 or higher. However, on days that you are mostly inside wear its okay to wear a moisturizer with SPF 15 or 30. But when you are not inside all day and running around, make sure to wear an SPF of close to SPF 50. Anyone who knows me knows that I don’t leave the house without sunscreen on my face, neck and chest…everyday.

WHAT TYPE OF SUNSCREEN IS BEST FOR YOU?

The one you will use!

Spray:

Easy to apply and good for squirmy kids. Make sure you use a lot to fully get coverage and try not to breath it in. Watch out if you have sensitive skin – a lot of these can be irritating and cause rashes.

Moisturizer with built-in sunscreen:

This is great for everyday and when you are indoors most of the day. They tend to be lighter and easy to apply with SPFs around 15 and 20. You will need additional SPF if you plan to spend time outside.

Mineral/Physical Blocks:

These contain zinc or titanium and are perfect for sensitive skin. They sit on top of the skin and act as a blocker with little to no irritation. These are especially great if you have melasma.

Sweat/Water Resistant:

The FDA no longer allows the terms “waterproof” or “sweat-proof”. So you will find only “water-resistant” on the label. These are made to stay on the skin if you are wet or sweaty – but know that they still have to be applied every 2 hours to be effective. They are usually formulated with a bit more oil, silicones (like dimethacone), or a film polymer (like sodium polycrylate) to give them the staying power when water is involved. Interestingly, a study came out recently that found water-resistant sunscreens were less effective in chlorinated pools than in salt water. The chemicals in the chlorinated water can disintegrate the active ingredients. Best to reapply after every swim session!

Powders:

These are the BEST for reapplication. You can leave one in your purse and reapply before that afternoon hike.

DO SUNSCREENS EXPIRE?

Yes. They are required by the FDA to last about 3 years. Check the label for an expiration date. But realize that they can breakdown with heat. If you have been leaving the sunscreen in your hot car all summer, it probably needs to be tossed.

WHAT’S THE DEAL WITH MAKING SURE YOU GET ENOUGH VITAMIN D?

Vitamin D is important for strong bones and a good immune system. It’s fine to get some of your vit D from the sun’s UV radiation – but limit it and keep your face and chronically exposed areas out of the mix. The Skin Cancer Foundation suggests that you get your recommended daily 600 IU of vit D from food sources like fish and cereals or from supplements.

PROTECTION POINTERS:

Apply at least 20 minutes before getting into the sun (the chemical ones take that long to absorb).
Reapply, reapply and reapply… every 2 hours and after chlorinated pool swims.
With sticks, you need to apply 4 passes to get effective protection – so rub that stuff all over!
If you have sensitive skin – stick to mineral sunscreens to avoid chemical irritation.
Keep sunscreen somewhere convenient – by the front door, in your gym bag or purse. But avoid keeping in your car so that the heat doesn’t degrade the active ingredients.
Make sure to cover your lips – especially your lower lip because it is 12 times more likely to be affected by skin cancer.
By the way – I have heard some chatter from sunscreen skeptics and natural-types who feel you can skip sunscreen altogether and use more “natural” oils like coconut, raspberry seed and carrot seed. But know that these only provide a small protection (about SPF 4) against UVB rays and no protection against UVA. So best not to count on these when out playing in the sun.