5 Back to School Tips for Teens and College Students

by Pauli Morrow | Jan 26, 2024 | Healthy Skin, Skin Care Products, Sunscreen, teens

This is for all of you heading back to school this fall. As you gear up to hit the books again, don’t forget to give your skin some TLC too. Here are five practical skincare tips that will have you looking fresh and ready to conquer the new school year.

1) Choose the right cleanser for your skin type (and wash your face twice a day!)

The trick here is finding your perfect match. Just like finding the right study group, finding the right cleanser for your skin type is essential. Oily skin? Opt for a gentle foaming cleanser. Dry skin? Cream-based cleansers are your go-to. Choosing the right cleanser can make all the difference in limiting irritation and keeping those breakouts at bay.

Here are some great options:

Sugar and Coconut Foaming Cleanser

Gentle Foaming Cleansers if you are prone to acne or have oily/normal skin. Enriched with plant extracts, this helps to soothe and protect your skin. Aloe vera calms the skin while coconut oil derivatives gently wash away impurities. (Available for purchase only in our office).

Epionce Gentle Foaming Cleanser

This gently cleans surface impurities including makeup without leaving the skin feeling tight, dry or stripped; cleanses without irritation; helps smooth and refine texture; leaves skin feeling hydrated.

Epionce Lytic Cleanser

For a little extra exfoliation, this spa-like cleanser contains salicylic acid to remove impurities and calm problem skin without unnecessary irritation or dryness; refreshes and calms problem skin; and removes stubborn dirt, oil and makeup.

Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser Available at Evolution Dermatology in Boulder, Colorado — Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser

Nutriance Organic Cleansing Milk

Cream Cleansers for dry/sensitive skin: This is a silky emulsion enriched with marine and botanical ingredients to gently remove impurities, dirt, surface oils and makeup residue.
(Available for purchase only in our office)

Nutriance Cleansing Milk Recommended by Evolution Dermatology in Boulder, Colorado — Nutriance Cleansing Milk

Epionce Milky Lotion Cleanser

This soothing cleanser is effective without harming, irritating or causing unnecessary dryness in the skin. It helps calm redness and scaly texture; leaves skin feeling soft and moisturized; and non-foaming formula for sensitive skin.

2) Moisturize Day and Night

Moisturize, Moisturize, Moisturize.

Imagine showing up for a pop quiz without studying – that’s your skin without moisturizer. Moisturizing twice a day after cleansing keeps your skin’s hydration game strong. Repairing your skin barrier with moisturizer can keep wrinkles in check and irritation at bay. Even if you are acne prone, moisturizer is important.

Here are some suggestions:

Acne Prone

Evolve HA Serum

This serum draws moisture into your skin with no oils, and contains squalene, coenzyme Q10, and peptides to repair your skin barrier.

(Available for purchase only in our office)

Evolve HA Serum made my Evolution Dermatology in Boulder, Colorado — Evolve HA Serum

Cetaphil Gentle Clear Mattifying Acne Moisturizer

This lightweight moisturizer with acne-fighting salicylic acid, helps breakouts while soothing acne-prone, sensitive skin. Hydrates for 48 hours, and improves skin tone and texture

Cetaphil Mattifying Acne Moisturizer recommended by Evolution Dermatology in Boulder, Colorado — Cetaphil Mattifying Acne Moisturizer

Normal/oily

Evolve Peptide Moisturizer

This contains hyaluronic acid, shea butter and non-comedogenic jojoba oil in addition to botanical actives to help promote elasticity and firmness to your skin.

(Available for purchase only in our office)

Evolve Peptide Moisturizer Made By Evolution Dermatology in Boulder, Colorado — Evolve Peptide Moisturizer

Dry/Sensitive skin

Nutriance Organic Rejuvenating Rich Cream

A luxuriously nourishing marine botanical-based cream with antioxidants to improve skin firmness and decreases the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. (Available for purchase only at our office)

Kiehl’s Ultra Facial Cream

Ultra hydrating facial cream with 4.5% Squalane has a unique lightweight texture and lasting 72-hour hydration to leave skin softer and visibly healthier. Formulated with Squalane, Glacial Glycoprotein and Pro-Ceramides, this non-greasy, lightweight moisturizer is clinically demonstrated to hydrate 15 layers deep for softer, smoother, and healthier looking skin.

Kiehl's Ultra Moisturizing Cream Recommended by Evolution Dermatology in Boulder, Colorado — Kiehl’s Ultra Moisturizing Cream

3) Use an Eye Cream

Say goodbye to panda eyes with a good eye cream.

Late-night study sessions can leave you with dark circles that resemble panda eyes. Enter eye cream – your sleep-deprived savior. Bid adieu to those bags and welcome a fresher look.

Evolve Brightening Probiotic Eye Cream

This is moisturizing with probiotics, kojic acid, botanicals and caffeine to reduce puffiness and dark circles. (Available for purchase at our office only)

Evolve Probiotic Eye Cream Made By Evolution Dermatology in Boulder, Colorado — Evolve Probiotic Eye Cream

Epionce Renewal Eye Cream

This product is great for adding moisture and antioxidants around your delicate eye area.

4) Make Sunblock a Daily Non-Negotiable Habit

Consider sunblock getting your face dressed every morning.

Just as you wouldn’t go to class without a backpack, don’t step out without sunscreen. The best way to use it is applying it every morning – in fact it can be what you use for your moisturizer. Rain or shine, sunscreen is your shield against premature aging caused by the sun. Trust me, your future self will thank you.

Here are some great choices for your face and neck that are not pore clogging and are easy to use:

COOLA: Rōsilliance® Tinted Moisturizer Organic Sunscreen SPF 30

Mineral tinted moisturizer! A lightly hydrating formula with antioxidants and mineral blocking zinc and titanium dioxide.

COOLA Rosilliance Tinted Organic SPF Available at Evolution Dermatology in Boulder, Colorado — COOLA Rosilliance Tinted SPF

Epionce Daily Shield Tinted SPF 50 Sunscreen

This one offers more moisture, a sheer tint, with zinc and titanium dioxide for Broad-spectrum SPF 50 UV protection; Light, quick-absorbing anti-oxidant rich sheer formula; Water Resistant (80 minutes)

Epionce Daily Shield Tinted SPF 50 Available at Evolution Dermatology in Boulder Colorado — Epionce Daily Shield Tinted SPF 50

If a tint is not your thing:

COOLA Mineral Sun Silk Crème Organic Face Sunscreen SPF 30

This is not your usual white zinc sunblock. It is much more sheer, oil-free, and great for every day.

COOLA Sunsilk Mineral SPF 30 Available at Evolution Dermatology in Boulder Colorado — COOLA Sunsilk Mineral SPF 30

5) Consider a Vitamin C Serum

Vitamin C serum – your skin’s BFF.

Want that lit-from-within glow? Vitamin C serum is about to become your skin’s best friend. It fights dullness and dark spots like a pro. It is a powerful antioxidant that can both repair and protect your skin. Start a habit of beginning your day with this serum after washing. You won’t regret the resulting healthy glow!
Choosing the right vitamin C serum is important to make sure the active ingredient is stable and it is able to appropriately penetrate your skin without irritation.

My favorite vitamin C serums:

SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic Serum

This serum has been a gold standard for years, the only setback is the price tag (usually around $180). 🙂

Evolve 20% Vitamin C Serum

This potent antioxidant contains ferulic acid, vitamin E, and hyaluronic acid to repair the effects of sun exposure, lighten age spots, and smooth and brighten skin. (Available for purchase only in our Boulder office)

Evolve Vitamin C Serum from Evolution Dermatology in Boulder CO — Evolve Vitamin C Serum

So, as you embark on your academic adventure, remember that taking care of your skin is just as important as acing your exams. Incorporate these tips into your routine, and you’ll strut through the halls with confidence.

Happy studying and happy skin-caring!

Pros and Cons of Sunless Tanning Products

by Pauli Morrow | Jul 19, 2022 | Self Tanner, Skin Care Products

Pros and Cons of Sunless Tanning Products

Hopefully you have a sunny trip on the horizon. Since you will be baring more skin than usual on your adventure, there is nothing better than sporting a faux glow!

How can we enjoy some bronzed skin without a downside?

ARE TANNING BEDS EVER SAFE?

Never. The UV radiation from tanning beds (and of course the sun too) leads to skin damage, aging and skin cancer. Tanning beds are NEVER safe or good for your skin. Getting that “base tan” is only adding to your cumulative sun damage. In fact, indoor tanning beds increase your chances of developing melanoma by 20 percent. Stay away from them all together.

HOW DO SELF TANNING PRODUCTS WORK?

Self tanners are actually not a stain or dye. The products have an active ingredient and darkening agent called dihydroxy acetone (DHA). It is considered safe by the FDA and is derived from beet or cane sugar which reacts with the amino acids in the top layer of skin. It is kind of like the browning of an avocado or a piece of fruit. The darkening effect takes place in about four hours, and wears off when your outer layer of skin has naturally shed.

Another active ingredient in self-tanners is erythrulose. It works similarly to DHA and is derived from raspberries and can be found in some more “natural” products and even Jergen’s tanning products (in combination with DHA).

ARE SUNLESS TANNING PRODUCTS HARMFUL?

Some products contain parabens. This is something that you should avoid in any topical product that goes on your skin. Parabens act as a preservative when added to products to create a longer shelf life. But they have been linked to breast cancer and avoiding any ingredients that end in “-paraben” (like methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben and butylparaben) is best.

I have known to avoid parabens for a while, but what I did not expect to find out is that there are also other potentially harmful chemicals to be aware of in tanning products. In the past, I have always been a fan of getting a spray tan before a warm vacation – or using a self-tanner occasionally to help get a little color without the sun. However, what I did not realize is that there are some potentially harmful effects that these can have.

WHAT ARE THE HARMFUL EFFECTS OF DHA AND ERYTHRULOSE?

DHA and erythrulose were found in studies to have some unwanted side effects. DHA is FDA approved for topical use – but the FDA advises avoiding inhaling it (like with spray tans) and using it near mucus membranes (like eyes, nose and mouth). Here you can read more from the FDA. Humm…let’s find out why the advisory.

Here’s the breakdown from what was found in studies:

DHA CAN TRIGGER FREE RADICALS.

Triggering free radicals is known as oxidative stress. This study reported that DHA created free radicals which attack your cells and degrade collagen and elastin. This means that DHA can actually CAUSE premature aging and sagging skin!

DHA CAN ACCELERATE SUN DAMAGE.

I discovered that the DHA can accelerate sun damage if you go out into the sun. This study found that DHA-treated skin generates more than 180% additional radicals during sun exposure.

Geez. So to sum it up, DHA (the active ingredient in self tanners) can trigger free radicals and accelerate sun damage.

Erythrulose (the other active ingredient in self tanners) has also been shown to increase production of free radicals similar to the effect seen with DHA, as reported in this study.

HOWEVER, SELF TANNERS ARE STILL SAFER THAN EXCESS SUN EXPOSURE.

So, it seems that no self-tanning product is 100% safe and clean. However, occasional use and avoiding inhaling a spray, is probably less of a worry. There is no question that excessive sun exposure does lead to skin cancer. If using a self tanning product keeps you from using a tanning bed or getting extra sun exposure in the hopes of getting tanned skin, then it may be a good choice for you.

IS THERE ANY WAY TO SAFELY GET THAT FAUX GLOW?!

Where there is a will, I’ll sure try to find a way! Here are some safer alternatives you may want to consider.

I searched high and low and found this product that contains no parabens, no DHA and no erythrulose:

St. Tropez: Instant Glow Body Bronzer: Amazon $25

100% DHA-free. Give your skin an instant glow up that lasts all day with streak-free results that are transfer and water resistant. This is best for those looking for a quick fix or instant results with no commitment or for nervous tanners seeking a risk-free temporary glow up. I loved the way it went on smoothly and actually looked natural.

COOLA Organic Sunless Tan Anti-Aging Serum (with Beet-Derived DHA): $54 in our office or on the COOLA website

COOLA crafted a product that is organic, paraben-free, sulfate-free, and contains ingredients like argon oil and antioxidants that can fight free radicals and potentially counteract any negative impact that DHA could cause. This has not been specifically studied, but in theory this could be a positive impact on your skin.

The Skinny on Exfoliating for the Best Skin Ever

by Pauli Morrow | Jul 7, 2022 | Exfoliation, Healthy Skin, Skin Care Products, Skincare

The Skinny on Exfoliating for the Best Skin Ever

Exfoliation is one of my most favorite skincare steps. I love getting my skin back to its natural state – free of sunscreen, dead skin cells, make-up, and any pollutants from the day. It’s such a clean, refreshing feeling!

These days there are so many exfolitating options of scrubs, cleansers, masks, facials, dermaplaning, retinoids, and in-office peels.

With all of these choices you might be wondering what to choose! Then there is the questions if why exfoliate and how often should you exfoliate?

WHAT EXACTLY IS EXFOLIATING?

Remember this? St. Ives Apricot Scrub.

I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this today, but my first exfoliating facial scrub was St Ives Apricot Scrub when I was a teen trying to help my acne. This was before I even knew anything about exfoliating and I was scrubbing my skin to the point of redness in hopes to control some unruly pimples! Now that I’m older, I am using more sophisticated products that are gentler and more targeted for keeping my skin smooth and fighting fines and wrinkles.

Officially, exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin using a chemical, granular substance, or exfoliation tool.

Mother Nature does her own job of exfoliating and your skin naturally sheds dead skin cells to make room for new cells every 30 days or so. As the new skin cells mature, they travel from the lower layers of your skin to the top epidermal layer. Once they make it to that outer layer, the skin cells are dead. And eventually, they’ll slough off as the newer cells will come to the surface. If dead cells don’t shed completely on their own, it can result in a dull skin tone, flaky patches and clogged pores.

Exfoliation helps your natural sloughing process along. When done correctly, using an exfoliant can help clear off the dead skin cells and unclog pores, revealing newer, younger skin cells below. That glow and brightness you are looking for…exfoliating can help you get that!

6 BENEFITS OF EXFOLIATING:

1) UNCLOGS PORES AND PREVENTS ACNE

Those frustrating clogged pores, that ultimately can turn into acne pimples, are the result of dead skin cells (along with other surface debris) getting trapped in your pores instead of being shed into the environment. If you suffer from acne, your skin creates and sheds dead skin cells faster than someone who doesn’t break out. Someone with normal skin will shed about 30,000 – 40,000 dead skin cells AN HOUR. Acne sufferers’ skin can shed up to 5X that!

Sweeping away those dead skin cells and debris with exfoliation stops them from making their way into your pores and causing stubborn whiteheads and blackheads. Someone who is prone to acne can greatly benefit from exfoliation at home and in a professional dermatology setting. I will typically recommend things like a topical retinoid prescription and/or an AHA cleanser for my acne patients to use and home. Additionally, I love seeing the benefits of faster results and smooth skin when they come in for in-office glycolic and salicylic acid peels (see What’s Up with Chemical Facial Peels).

2) INCREASES CIRCULATION

Just the process of exfoliating can stimulate blood flow to the surface of your skin. This promotes collagen production, encourages healthy cells, and brightens your skin.

3) HELPS OTHER SKINCARE PRODUCTS PENETRATE DEEPER

Exfoliating your skin will help skincare products like antioxidant serums and moisturizers penetrate deeply into your skin to work more effectively. Removing those extra dead skin cells will get your skin to a state of maximum absorption, so those products that you really want to be workhorses for anti-aging penetrating deeper in the skin so that they can work their magic!

4) IMPROVES TONE AND REDUCES BROWN SPOTS/SUN DAMAGE

When your skin gets exposed to the sun, it makes a chemical called melanin to protect itself against further UV damage. Repeated exposure can cause a clump of melanin to form, which shows up as a flat brown or black spot By exfoliating, you can help fade these dark spots by encouraging new skin cells and improving the tone of your skin.

5) IMPROVES TEXTURE

Exfoliating increases your skin cell turnover rate. This means that it will promote new, healthy cells at the surface, and break down and remove the dead, dry, or dying ones. The result is soft skin, smooth texture, a more uniform appearance and a glow that we all strive for!

6) PROMOTES COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS

Collagen is a protein that acts as the structure for our skin and helps with elasticity. It is what we are all trying to get more of (and keep from losing) in our skin to avoid lines, sagging, and wrinkles.

Continued and regular exfoliating over time has been shown to increase collagen production in your skin. Resulting in a complexion that is more plump, tight and young-looking. Amen to that!

THERE ARE 2 TYPES OF EXFOLIATORS…

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL:

It sounds complicated, but they are doing a similar thing in different ways. Some people prefer chemical exfoliants over physical ones and vice versa, but it’s up to your specific needs. I actually use both!

PHYSICAL EXFOLIATORS

This is the type of exfoliation that involves you or someone else doing all of the work with either manual scrubbing, rubbing or shaving (in dermaplaning).

The skincare products in this category include: cleansing scrubs (containing beads, sugar, salt and other rough particles), body brushes (that you used by hand or motorized, like Clarisonic), loofahs, exfoliating mitts, and in-office microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, and microneedling.

Physical exfoliation can be effective, but care must be taken. It is easy to overuse them or use them too harshly and cause redness, irritation and even pimples. Make sure to use these gently and look for tiny scrubbing particles that won’t scratch or damage your skin. One tip is to follow up with a humectant moisturizer or hyaluronic acid serum to minimize irritation and lock in moisture.

CHEMICAL EXFOLIATORS

This method uses different chemicals, including acids, retinoids, or enzymes. The benefit of these is that they not only exfoliate the surface dead skin cells away, but also to break the bonds between cells to renew your skin even further and offer more dramatic results. Chemical exfoliants might come in a wash labeled for acne or anti-aging, in a serum, in an at-home peel, or a peel at your dermatology or esthetician office. The difference between a peel at an esthetician office and derm office is strength. In a derm office we can go deeper and do stronger peels. I love doing peels and we have a big variety to choose from!

Some examples of chemical exfoliants include:

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – glycolic (from sugar), lactic (from milk), citrus (from citric fruits), mandelic (from almonds) and malic acids (from apples).

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) – salicylic acid (from willow trees).

Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) – gluconolactone (made from an acid found in fruit, honey and wine) and lactobionic acid (a sugar acid).

Retinoids – over-the-counter retinol and adapalene (Differin gel), and prescriptions including: tretinoin (Retin A), tazarotene (Tazorac) and alitretinoin (Altreno).

Enzymes – common ones are from fruits including: papaya, pineapple, blueberry, or pumpkin.

I realize that there are a lot of chemical choices out there. Take care choosing, because just as with physical exfoliation, chemical exfoliation can irritate the skin if done incorrectly. If you’re unsure about how to incorporate a chemical product into your skincare routine, make an appointment for a little guidance.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU BE EXFOLIATING?

Believe it or not, you can exfoliate TOO much! The satisfaction of scrubbing the negative and wrong doings off your face cannot be denied. At times it’s tempting to be aggressive and over exfoliate. But taking too much of that protective barrier on your skin’s surface can result in a red and irritated face. The best way to know you are on the right track is to see the glowing results without irritation. Slow and steady is the key! It sounds simple, but ultimately you can exfoliate as often as your skin will tolerate it.

The best way to see what your skin can tolerate is to start with an exfoliator once or twice a week, preferably introducing a chemical exfoliator before a physical one. Chemical ones tend to be less intense and more evenly applied. Physical ones like scrubs tend to cause more irritation if used too aggressively – which is tempting to do at first.

If it feels like your skin can handle more without reacting, then it’s okay to slowly increase as your skin allows. If you notice that your face is stinging and red, or otherwise angry afterward, it’s time to take a step back. You may need to decrease the frequency of use, decrease pressure with your physical exfoliant, or switch to a milder chemical formulation (like lactic or glycolic acid rather than a retinoid). It’s also worth considering your whole skincare routine and avoiding using other potentially irritating products right after you exfoliate. Normal skin can typically handle 5 to 7 times a week with a gentle exfoliant. I like to use my chemical exfoliant wash in the evening to totally remove dirt, oil, make-up and sunscreen from the day.

However, if you have more sensitive skin or rosacea you may only be able to exfoliate once a week. If you know you are sensitive, don’t overdo it! Stick to a gentle exfoliant and make sure to moisturize immediately after to lock in moisture and limit irritation and redness.

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A PRODUCT TO USE AT HOME

Your over-the-counter options for exfoliating are almost endless.

Picking a product that will work for you depends on your skin type and your major concerns. If you have dry or sensitive skin, you might have problems tolerating harsh scrubbing products, while someone with oily or acne-prone skin would be able to tolerate them more easily. Here a few suggestions that I tend to reach for…

CLEANSERS:

Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser

This cleanses without irritation or over-drying with botanical anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredients like: Willow Bark Extract (a botanical source of Salicylic acid), Date Fruit Extract, Orange Fruit Extract and just the perfect touch of Menthol to make you feel like you just went to the spa!

SKINCEUTICALS MICRO-EXFOLIATING SCRUB

With hydrated silica beads are used to exfoliate instead of micro plastic beads of the past so that it is better for the environment.

Neutrogena Naturals Purifying Pore Scrub

This scrub is fabulous for all skin types, especially great if you struggle with both breakouts and dry, sensitive skin. It contains jojoba beads that are a gentle way to exfoliate, and the addition of willow bark is an excellent way to naturally fight pimples.

LEAVE-ON EXFOLIANTS:

Epionce Lytic Tx

Apply this product at night to help with fine lines and wrinkles as well as fight those stubborn pimples with both Salicylic acid and Azelaic acid!

SkinCeuticals Retexurizing Activator

This hydrating serum contains 20% glycolic acid for fabulous exfoliation without drying out your skin. I alternate this one with my prescription Retin-A/tretinoin cream at night for anti-aging superpower without irritation.

SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age

This is a fun combination of 2% dioic acid with alpha and beta hydroxy acids prevent blemishes while diminishing hyperpigmentation and reducing wrinkles and fine lines. You can even use this one to spot treat pimples!

Prescription Only Retin-A/Tretinoin Cream

This is the cream of the crop for exfoliating and collagen production! But watch out for possible irritation with this one. It’s worth asking your derm about this one for great skin texture and tone.

Is There a Correct Order to Apply Your Skincare Products?

by Pauli Morrow | Jul 7, 2022 | Healthy Skin, Skin Care Products, Skincare

Is There a Correct Order to Apply Your Skincare Products?

THE ANSWER IS YES!

Don’t you just love the right product that makes your skin feel soft and smooth? Or even better, one that is full of antioxidants or a sheer zinc-based product that protects you from the harmful rays of the sun? But if your routine has two or three or five products it can be tough to decide which goes on first (or second or third)!

WHY DOES THE ORDER YOU APPLY PRODUCTS MATTER?

You want to be sure your products to penetrate into your skin and do what they are meant to do. This can be a problem if you’re putting thin, fluid or water-based products on top of thick, creamy or oily ones. The richer products will form a barrier on your skin that will prevent the other products from getting through.

This in turn can make your products less effective. If certain products aren’t able to absorb into your skin properly, you’re likely not getting their full benefits.

HERE ARE THE BASICS…

Water-based before oil-based products:

Start with your water-based products, such as toners and serums. Heavier, more moisturizing creams and oils come next, followed by sunscreen.

This makes sense because as we all know, oil and water don’t mix. Oil acts as a barrier and will block a water-based product from penetrating into your skin.

Thinnest to thickest texture:

Apply lighter products before heavy ones.

If you have a couple of water-based products or serums they can be layered on top of each other, and there shouldn’t be an issue with the penetration of one versus the other. When applying your moisturizing oil-based products begin with lighter lotions, then thicker moisturizers followed by oils.

In other words, apply those water-based products in any sequence you like, then oil-based products afterward. Think of oil-based products as the icing on the cake!

WHAT IF YOU USE A TOPICAL PRESCRIPTION MEDICATION?

Once you throw prescription medications into the mix, application order becomes more important. Topical prescriptions such as retinoids, steroids, and antibiotics beat out cosmetic products every time, and you need to ensure you’re getting the full dosage of your topical medication. Any topical medication that has been prescribed for you should go on first after you cleanse (and tone – if you use a toner) because medicines are absorbed best when the skin is damp, and when there’s nothing between the skin and the medicine.

Applying a serum or moisturizer before a topical prescription medication basically dilutes your medication. That said, if you’re using something that’s known to be irritating (such as a retinoid, like retinol or Retin-A/tretinoin), and you have sensitive skin, I recommend mixing it with your moisturizer or putting it on after moisturizer to soften the blow a little.

An important side note that also pertains to prescription retinoids, is that some over-the-counter active ingredients can interfere with the effectiveness of retinoids when used during the same routine. In particular, benzoyl peroxide can deactivate certain retinoids when used at the same time. If you use any benzoyl peroxide product and a retinoid, apply one in the morning and one at night.

WHAT ABOUT SUNSCREEN?

Most medical experts and scientists agree that sunscreen is always the final step in your daytime skincare routine. This is exactly how sunscreens are tested to earn their SPF rating: Nothing goes over them. Any skin care product you apply over a sunscreen dilutes and reduces its effectiveness.

Sunscreens are divided into two camps, physical and chemical. They work in two different ways, like a sponge or like a shield.

Physical sunscreens contain minerals (like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) that create a barrier on your skin to block out harmful rays.
Chemical sunscreens (look for ingredients like oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, or octinoxate) absorb the sun’s rays.

When you mix your SPF with another medium like moisturizer, you run the risk of diluting your sunscreen’s effectiveness or canceling it out altogether.

I know I said oils go on last, but technically, sunscreen is the absolute last step. Your other products are working to penetrate and treat your skin, but sunscreen does not need to penetrate into your skin. It’s there to protect your face and act as armor against the outside world.

Just make sure you are using an SPF of 30 or higher!

CAN MAKEUP GO OVER YOUR SUNSCREEN?

It is true that a foundation or tinted moisturizer will hide imperfections or discolorations on your skin best if it is the last thing you apply. I’m often asked if applying foundation that doesn’t contain sunscreen over the sunscreen you’ve just applied will diminish the sunscreen’s ability to protect skin. It won’t if you follow these guidelines:

Wait 3–5 minutes for the sunscreen to set before applying foundation.
Apply the foundation in smooth, downward motions (no rubbing back and forth). You can also use a sponge or brush to gently press the foundation on.
Do not use excess pressure or over-blend.

DO YOU WANT TO AVOID MAKEUP ALTOGETHER? THEN USE A TINTED SUNSCREEN OR A CC CREAM WITH SPF TO DO BOTH JOBS AT ONCE!

Here are some of my favorites:

Coola Rosilliance

Coola Rosilliance Organic SPF 30

Epionce tinted SPF 50

HERE IS THE RUN-DOWN STEP-BY-STEP:

(AND IT DOESN’T MEAN THAT YOU NECESSARILY NEED ALL OF THESE STEPS)

Step 1: Cleanse and/or exfoliate. You can learn more about exfoliating here.

Step 2: Use a toner, spray or essence

Step 3: Apply eye cream

Step 4: Use any topical prescriptions or spot treatments

Step 5: Apply antioxidant serum or retinol/Retin-A/tretinoin (night only)

Step 6: Apply moisturizer (thinnest to thickest)

Step 7: Apply face oil

Step 8: If in morning – apply your SPF/sun protection. Learn more about sun protection here.

Step 9: If wearing – gently apply makeup as to not disturb SPF

MORNING VS NIGHT?

Best to focus on products that “protect” your skin—SPF, primers, BB and CC creams—for the morning time, and “correct” your skin in the night, such as heavier moisturizers and retinol products. The “correcting” or treatment products will stay on your skin longest with nighttime application. And your skin needs the protective products during the day to help fight against damaging sun rays and pollutants.

BTW – antioxidant serums both protect and correct, so they can be used morning or night! I use a vitamin C serum (Evolve 20% Vitamin C Serum) in the morning and Evolve HA serum twice a day.

Evolve 20% Vitamin C Serum

(with ferulic acid, vitamin e, and botanical HA)

Evolve Advanced HA Serum

(with antioxidants and organic green tea extract)

Learn more from Dermatologist Pauli Morrow from Evolution Dermatology

Pauli Morrow, MMSc, PA-C

The bottom line…

Using skin care products should be gratifying and make you feel good about your skin! Don’t stress about it too much, sticking to a precise application order ultimately won’t make or break your skin-care routine.

If you are using a prescription product, always check with your derm provider before introducing a new product to make sure it’s compatible with your topical meds. You want to ensure that your prescription will most effectively treat what it is intended to!

If your routine is just for fun or self-care, just do your best and don’t agonize over the details too much!

Safe and Chemical-Free Skin Care: How to Avoid Harmful Ingredients.

by Pauli Morrow | Jul 7, 2022 | Chemicals, Skin Care Products, Skincare

Safe and Chemical-Free Skin Care: How to Avoid Harmful Ingredients.

DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE PUTTING ON YOUR SKIN?

I have been guilty of running through a store and quickly grabbing a product with a fancy label and promises to fight wrinkles or make your skin glow. But what is in this random product?

What goes on your skin does seep beyond the skin’s surface. Wouldn’t it be nice to know that what you are using is not only good for your skin but safe for your whole body?

HOW COULD HARMFUL CHEMICALS BE ALLOWED IN SKIN CARE PRODUCTS?

Believe it or not, the skin care industry is highly unregulated. A minuscule approval process with the FDA exists, but only for color additives and ingredients classified as over-the-counter drugs. This means that unhealthy and irritating chemicals could be in the products you are using right now.

WHAT INGREDIENTS SHOULD YOU AVOID?

HERE ARE THE TOP 8 CHEMICALS TO AVOID:

PARABENS:

WHAT ARE PARABENS?

These are preservatives added to prevent the growth of bacteria, mold, and yeast. Ultimately, they are used to prolong the shelf-life of a product. Researchers have found that 85%-90% of personal care items (such as toothpaste, shampoos, lotions, and cleansers) contain measurable amounts of parabens.

WHY SHOULD YOU AVOID PARABENS?

They have estrogen-mimicking properties that have been linked to endocrine disruption and the growth of breast cancer cells. It was reported in a 2004 research study that parabens were actually found in breast cancer tumors. The big concern is that cumulative exposure to parabens may contribute to developmental disorders, fertility problems, and possibly breast cancer.

WHAT IS THE FDA’S TAKE ON THIS?

The FDA acknowledges that several studies have linked parabens to breast cancer but has ruled parabens as not harmful. One interesting side note is that the European Union banned parabens in 2012 but then approved use in 2014 in limited amounts in products that rinse off (like shampoos and shower gels).

HOW DO YOU MAKE SURE YOU’RE NOT USING PARABENS?

Look for “paraben free” on the label. Another way is to avoid ingredients that end with the suffix “-paraben.” These are words like: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and isobutylparaben.

SYNTHETIC/ARTIFICIAL COLORS:

HOW DO YOU KNOW IF A COLOR IS SYNTHETIC?

If you take a look at your product label and notice FD&C or D&C followed by a color and a number, they represent artificial colors.

WHY AVOID THESE SYNTHETIC COLORS?

Many of these synthetic colors are derived from coal tar sources. Coal tar is a mixture of many chemicals, derived from petroleum. Coal tar is recognized as a human carcinogen and the main concern with coal tar colors is their potential to cause cancer. Additionally, coal tar can contain traces of heavy metal salts that can cause skin sensitivity and irritation. Synthetic colors are suspected to be a human carcinogen and a skin irritant.

WHAT DOES THE FDA SAY ABOUT THIS?

Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act indicates some colors approved by the FDA for use in foods, drugs, and cosmetics. One example is colors labeled D and C are not approved for use in food (just drugs and cosmetics). If they are too harmful to eat, do we really want to put these products on our skin?

HOW DO I AVOID SYNTHETIC COLORS?

Thankfully, it’s pretty simple to determine if those bright colors we love are real or not. Just check the label, and steer clear if any of the ingredients begin with a number or the letters D&C.

ARTIFICIAL FRAGRANCE:

HOW DO I KNOW IF A FRAGRANCE IS ARTIFICIAL?

Fragrance mixtures can be composed of dozens, even hundreds of individual chemicals which don’t have to be listed on the label. If you see the word “fragrance” or “parfum” listed on the ingredients list, it is likely that it is artificial.

WHY AVOID THEM?

The idea of artificial fragrance is pretty scary, because what does “fragrance” mean anyway? This term was created by the FDA to protect the product’s “secret fragrance formula.” But you could be putting on a concoction that contains tons of chemicals that are irritants and hazardous to your health. Somewhere close to 3000 chemicals are used in fragrances. According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), fragrance mixes have been associated with allergies, dermatitis, and potential effects on the reproductive system.

According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), fragrance is the number one cause of contact dermatitis in cosmetic products and its prevalence is on the rise.

Additionally, some studies have shown that synthetic musks can build up in our bodies and may enhance the impact of other toxic chemicals. These synthetic musks also contaminate waterways and wildlife. Phthalates, which have been linked to hormone disruption (see Phthalates below), have also been found in synthetic fragrance.

WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK?

It’s interesting to note that every other ingredient used in personal care products must, as stated by the FDA, be listed on the label, but fragrance is considered a “trade secret” and is not required to be listed.

“FDA does not have the same legal authority to require allergen labeling for cosmetics as for food. So, if you are concerned about fragrance sensitivities, you may want to … contact the manufacturer directly,” according to the FDA.

HOW DO YOU AVOID ARTIFICIAL FRAGRANCE IN MY PRODUCTS?

The best fragrances are found in essential oils and natural botanicals. If “fragrance” or “parfum” is listed on the label, put it back on the shelf. Or simply look for “fragrance-free” on the label.

TRICLOSAN:

What is Triclosan?

Triclosan was all the rage as antibacterial products started coming out in the 1990s. It is a synthetic preservative and antibacterial agent that can be found in toothpastes, antiperspirants/deodorants, laundry detergent, facial tissues, hand sanitizers, and antibacterial soaps. Triclosan is best known for its germ-killing power. The most likely place you will see it is in hand soaps and body washes that are labeled “anti-bacterial”.

But make sure to check your toothpaste too. The FDA approved it after reviewing data showing that it prevents gum disease.

WHY AVOID TRICLOSAN?

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) actually labels it as a pesticide! If that isn’t enough to convince you to stop using products with triclosan, know that not all bacteria is bad for you and triclosan works so well as an antibacterial agent that it could give rise to harmful bacteria that is resistant to antibiotics. In fact, studies have shown that washing with antibacterial soaps containing triclosan doesn’t provide any benefit over washing with regular soap and water.

And children exposed to these compounds at an early age also have an increased chance of developing allergies, asthma, and eczema.

The European Union classifies triclosan as irritating to the skin and eyes, and as very toxic to aquatic organisms. So not only is triclosan bad for you, it’s terrible for the environment.

WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK?

Even the FDA agrees that there is “no health benefit to humans” to use triclosan. But if used, triclosan must be listed on the product label.

HOW DO I AVOID TRICLOSAN?

If you are using an antibacterial agent, triclosan should be listed as an ingredient on the label.

Put your inner germaphobe at ease and know that water and regular soap will more than handle dirt and germs. Instead of looking for antibacterial products, reach for naturally antibacterial and antiseptic agents like tea tree oil.

SULFATES:

SODIUM LAURYL SULFATE (SLS) / SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE (SLE)

WHERE DO I FIND SLS AND SLES AND WHAT IS IT?

Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS) are surfactants that can be found in more than 90 percent of personal care and cleaning products. These sulfates are what make shampoos, shower gels, and facial cleansers have bubbles and foam.

WHY AVOID SLS AND SLES?

Sulfates are known to be skin, lung, and eye irritants. In addition, sulfates can dry out your hair and skin, resulting in split-ends, brittle hair, and maybe even itching. Despite a lot of internet chat about these surfactants being carcinogenic, there is not much concrete evidence to support this.

The only other factor to know is that these sulfates do not degrade easily, so are pollutants and are not the best for the environment.

WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK?

Not much. Just that the sulfates must be listed on the product label.

HOW DO I AVOID SLS AND SLES?

Look for “no sulfates” on the product or check the ingredients list for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS). Sulfates are especially common in shampoos.

FORMALDEHYDE:

Where do I find formaldehyde and what is it?

If you have ever dissected a frog in biology class, you know that formaldehyde smells terrible and is used as a preservative. Formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (FRPs) are used in some skin care products to help prevent bacteria growth. These can be found in nail polish, body washes, conditioners, shampoos, facial cleansers, and some eye shadows. According to data from the FDA, nearly 1 in 5 cosmetic products contains a substance that generates formaldehyde.

WHY IS FORMALDEHYDE SOMETHING TO AVOID?

The FDA and EPA have classified formaldehyde as carcinogenic when its fumes are inhaled. It is also a potent skin sensitizer and allergen that can result in red irritated skin.

Of course, skin care companies don’t dump pure formaldehyde into their products. Instead, they commonly use something called “formaldehyde releasers.” These chemicals decompose over time to form formaldehyde. This process happens slowly as the products sit on the shelf of the store or your bathroom countertop.

WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK?

The FDA does not restrict the amount of formaldehyde that can be present in cosmetics sold in the U.S. But any formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasers must be printed on the label.

HOW DO I AVOID FORMALDEHYDE?

Check the label carefully, both for the ingredient formaldehyde itself and for these common formaldehyde releasers:

DMDM hydantoin
Imidazolidinyl urea
Diazolidinyl urea
Quaternium-15
Bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol )
5-Bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane
Hydroxymethylglycinate

PHTHALATES

WHAT IS A PHTHALATE?

Phthalates are industrial “plasticizers” that are used in skin care products to dissolve and coalesce ingredients, and to impart flexibility to nail polish after it dries. The main phthalates in personal care products are dibutyl phthalate in nail polish, diethyl phthalate in perfumes and lotions, and dimethyl phthalate in hair spray.

WHY SHOULD I AVOID PHTHALATES?

Phthalates are not inert substances: They have biological activity. In animal studies, both phthalates and parabens were found to act on estrogen pathways, which in humans have been associated with chronic diseases, cancers, and a host of developmental disorders and fertility problems. It has been stated by experts who have reviewed the literature that phthalates pose significant potential health concerns to humans.

WHAT DOES THE FDA HAVE TO SAY?

The FDA feels that phthalates do not pose known risks for human health as it is currently used in cosmetics and fragrances.

But they do admit that “It’s not clear what effect, if any, phthalates have on human health.”

What the CDC has to say: “Human health effects from exposure to low levels of phthalates are unknown. Some types of phthalates have affected the reproductive system of laboratory animals. More research is needed to assess the human health effects of exposure to phthalates.”

HOW DO I AVOID PHTHALATES?

Phthalates are required to be listed on the product label … unless they are one of the ingredients in a fragrance. Ingredients used in fragrances are considered “trade secrets” by the FDA and are exempt from labelling requirements. Industry sources have indicated that phthalates do not appear on the vast majority of products containing them because they are components of fragrance. This gives consumers little power to avoid phthalates in their purchases of personal care products.

If a product’s label says phthalate-free, that provides clarity. Otherwise, there’s no way to be sure. Bummer.

DEA (DIETHANOLAMINE) AND DEA-RELATED INGREDIENTS:

Could Harmful Chemicals Be in Your Skin Care Products?

TEA (Triethanolamine) and MEA (Monoethanolamine) are DEA-Related Compounds

What exactly is DEA and related ingredients??

DEA (diethanolamine) and DEA compounds are used to make skin care products creamy or sudsy. DEA also acts as a pH adjuster, counteracting the acidity of other ingredients. DEA is found in all kinds of moisturizers, sunscreens, soaps, cleansers, and shampoos.

WHY AVOID DEA IN YOUR SKIN CARE PRODUCTS?

These substances are pretty harsh solvents and detergents and can cause allergic reactions and irritate your skin. But even worse, they have been found in lab studies (mostly done on animals) to cause certain types of cancers and organ toxicity.

WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK ABOUT DEA (DIETHANOLAMINE) AND RELATED INGREDIENTS?

The National Toxicology Program (NTP) completed a study in 1998 that found an association between the topical application of DEA and certain DEA-related ingredients and cancer in laboratory animals. But because the NTP study did not establish a link between DEA and the risk of cancer in humans, the FDA believes that at the present time there is no reason for consumers to be alarmed based on the use of these substances in cosmetics.

HOW DO I AVOID DEA AND DEA-LIKE COMPOUNDS?

Steer clear of any products with any ingredients containing the letters: DEA, MEA, or TEA.

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A Clean Skin Care Choice: Evolve Skin Care

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Evolve Skin Care, is a medical-grade skin care product line that combines advanced science with active ingredients to transform your skin.

No Parabens + Plant Based + No Phathates + Cruelty-Free + No Artificial Fragrance + No Formaldehyde + No Artificial Colors + Non-Toxic + Chemical Free + Vegan

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Come by our office and we can help you choose which Evolve Skin Care product will be best for you!