Dermaplaning has been around for over 40 years, but has gained immense popularity as a non-invasive cosmetic procedure in recent years. It’s a very effective skincare treatment that is simple but delivers some amazing results. Here I explore the concept of dermaplaning, its benefits, and if it may be right for you. Let’s dive in!
Dermaplaning, also known as epidermal leveling or blading, is a skincare procedure performed by our experienced aestheticians. It entails using a specialized surgical scalpel to gently scrape off dead skin cells and vellus hair (peach fuzz) from the surface of the skin. It will take about 20-30 minutes and is completely painless. You can enjoy the benefits of this treatment every three to four weeks to maintain a smooth, radiant appearance.
How can I benefit from dermaplaning?
Numerous medical journals highlight the potential benefits of dermaplaning. According to a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (Smith et al., 2018), dermaplaning can improve skin texture, reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, and enhance the absorption and efficacy of skincare products. Additionally, dermaplaning can provide a smoother canvas for makeup application, resulting in a more flawless finish (Gonzalez et al., 2019). In short, it rejuvenates your skin by promoting cell turnover and enhances product penetration. Any skin care products placed on your skin after the treatment will absorb better and your skin will be glowing and smooth!
Are there any side effects?
Dermaplaning is very safe and has little side effects. A comprehensive review published in the Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology (Al-Niaimi et al., 2020) indicates that possible side effects of dermaplaning may include temporary redness, sensitivity, and a risk of superficial cuts or nicks. However, these side effects are not common and tend to resolve quickly.
Is dermaplaning right for your skin type?
Dermaplaning is suitable for most people seeking skin rejuvenation. It is particularly beneficial for those with dry or rough skin, superficial hyperpigmentation, or mild acne scarring. However, it is not ideal if you have active acne, open wounds, sunburns, or a history of keloid scarring. If you are not sure, just ask our aesthetician and she can help you make the best decision for you.
What should you know before dermaplaning?
Before having a dermaplaning treatment, there are a few considerations. It is important to have a professional experienced in performing dermaplaning and never try this at home! Additionally, inform our aesthetician about any allergies, skin conditions, or medications you are currently using. Avoid excessive sun exposure and discontinue the use of retinoids or exfoliating products a few days before the treatment.
Can you combine dermaplaning with other facials?
Dermaplaning can be combined with other types of facials to enhance your results. According to a study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (Mills et al., 2019), combining dermaplaning with chemical peels can provide a synergistic effect, improving overall skin texture and tone. When scheduling your facial, just ask if dermaplaning can be added to boost your results!
Dermaplaning offers a range of benefits to improve the appearance and texture of your skin. Indulge in this rejuvenating experience, and watch as your complexion transforms, revealing a fresh and youthful appearance that will make heads turn!
Exfoliation is one of my most favorite skincare steps. I love getting my skin back to its natural state – free of sunscreen, dead skin cells, make-up, and any pollutants from the day. It’s such a clean, refreshing feeling!
With all of these choices you might be wondering what to choose! Then there is the questions if why exfoliate and how often should you exfoliate?
WHAT EXACTLY IS EXFOLIATING?
Remember this? St. Ives Apricot Scrub.
I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this today, but my first exfoliating facial scrub was St Ives Apricot Scrub when I was a teen trying to help my acne. This was before I even knew anything about exfoliating and I was scrubbing my skin to the point of redness in hopes to control some unruly pimples! Now that I’m older, I am using more sophisticated products that are gentler and more targeted for keeping my skin smooth and fighting fines and wrinkles.
Officially, exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin using a chemical, granular substance, or exfoliation tool.
Mother Nature does her own job of exfoliating and your skin naturally sheds dead skin cells to make room for new cells every 30 days or so. As the new skin cells mature, they travel from the lower layers of your skin to the top epidermal layer. Once they make it to that outer layer, the skin cells are dead. And eventually, they’ll slough off as the newer cells will come to the surface. If dead cells don’t shed completely on their own, it can result in a dull skin tone, flaky patches and clogged pores.
Exfoliation helps your natural sloughing process along. When done correctly, using an exfoliant can help clear off the dead skin cells and unclog pores, revealing newer, younger skin cells below. That glow and brightness you are looking for…exfoliating can help you get that!
6 BENEFITS OF EXFOLIATING:
1) UNCLOGS PORES AND PREVENTS ACNE
Those frustrating clogged pores, that ultimately can turn into acne pimples, are the result of dead skin cells (along with other surface debris) getting trapped in your pores instead of being shed into the environment. If you suffer from acne, your skin creates and sheds dead skin cells faster than someone who doesn’t break out. Someone with normal skin will shed about 30,000 – 40,000 dead skin cells AN HOUR. Acne sufferers’ skin can shed up to 5X that!
Sweeping away those dead skin cells and debris with exfoliation stops them from making their way into your pores and causing stubborn whiteheads and blackheads. Someone who is prone to acne can greatly benefit from exfoliation at home and in a professional dermatology setting. I will typically recommend things like a topical retinoid prescription and/or an AHA cleanser for my acne patients to use and home. Additionally, I love seeing the benefits of faster results and smooth skin when they come in for in-office glycolic and salicylic acid peels (see What’s Up with Chemical Facial Peels).
2) INCREASES CIRCULATION
Just the process of exfoliating can stimulate blood flow to the surface of your skin. This promotes collagen production, encourages healthy cells, and brightens your skin.
3) HELPS OTHER SKINCARE PRODUCTS PENETRATE DEEPER
Exfoliating your skin will help skincare products like antioxidant serums and moisturizers penetrate deeply into your skin to work more effectively. Removing those extra dead skin cells will get your skin to a state of maximum absorption, so those products that you really want to be workhorses for anti-aging penetrating deeper in the skin so that they can work their magic!
4) IMPROVES TONE AND REDUCES BROWN SPOTS/SUN DAMAGE
When your skin gets exposed to the sun, it makes a chemical called melanin to protect itself against further UV damage. Repeated exposure can cause a clump of melanin to form, which shows up as a flat brown or black spot By exfoliating, you can help fade these dark spots by encouraging new skin cells and improving the tone of your skin.
5) IMPROVES TEXTURE
Exfoliating increases your skin cell turnover rate. This means that it will promote new, healthy cells at the surface, and break down and remove the dead, dry, or dying ones. The result is soft skin, smooth texture, a more uniform appearance and a glow that we all strive for!
6) PROMOTES COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS
Collagen is a protein that acts as the structure for our skin and helps with elasticity. It is what we are all trying to get more of (and keep from losing) in our skin to avoid lines, sagging, and wrinkles.
Continued and regular exfoliating over time has been shown to increase collagen production in your skin. Resulting in a complexion that is more plump, tight and young-looking. Amen to that!
THERE ARE 2 TYPES OF EXFOLIATORS…
PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL:
It sounds complicated, but they are doing a similar thing in different ways. Some people prefer chemical exfoliants over physical ones and vice versa, but it’s up to your specific needs. I actually use both!
PHYSICAL EXFOLIATORS
This is the type of exfoliation that involves you or someone else doing all of the work with either manual scrubbing, rubbing or shaving (in dermaplaning).
The skincare products in this category include: cleansing scrubs (containing beads, sugar, salt and other rough particles), body brushes (that you used by hand or motorized, like Clarisonic), loofahs, exfoliating mitts, and in-office microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, and microneedling.
Physical exfoliation can be effective, but care must be taken. It is easy to overuse them or use them too harshly and cause redness, irritation and even pimples. Make sure to use these gently and look for tiny scrubbing particles that won’t scratch or damage your skin. One tip is to follow up with a humectant moisturizer or hyaluronic acid serum to minimize irritation and lock in moisture.
CHEMICAL EXFOLIATORS
This method uses different chemicals, including acids, retinoids, or enzymes. The benefit of these is that they not only exfoliate the surface dead skin cells away, but also to break the bonds between cells to renew your skin even further and offer more dramatic results. Chemical exfoliants might come in a wash labeled for acne or anti-aging, in a serum, in an at-home peel, or a peel at your dermatology or esthetician office. The difference between a peel at an esthetician office and derm office is strength. In a derm office we can go deeper and do stronger peels. I love doing peels and we have a big variety to choose from!
Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) – gluconolactone (made from an acid found in fruit, honey and wine) and lactobionic acid (a sugar acid).
Retinoids – over-the-counter retinol and adapalene (Differin gel), and prescriptions including: tretinoin (Retin A), tazarotene (Tazorac) and alitretinoin (Altreno).
Enzymes – common ones are from fruits including: papaya, pineapple, blueberry, or pumpkin.
I realize that there are a lot of chemical choices out there. Take care choosing, because just as with physical exfoliation, chemical exfoliation can irritate the skin if done incorrectly. If you’re unsure about how to incorporate a chemical product into your skincare routine, make an appointment for a little guidance.
HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU BE EXFOLIATING?
Believe it or not, you can exfoliate TOO much! The satisfaction of scrubbing the negative and wrong doings off your face cannot be denied. At times it’s tempting to be aggressive and over exfoliate. But taking too much of that protective barrier on your skin’s surface can result in a red and irritated face. The best way to know you are on the right track is to see the glowing results without irritation. Slow and steady is the key! It sounds simple, but ultimately you can exfoliate as often as your skin will tolerate it.
The best way to see what your skin can tolerate is to start with an exfoliator once or twice a week, preferably introducing a chemical exfoliator before a physical one. Chemical ones tend to be less intense and more evenly applied. Physical ones like scrubs tend to cause more irritation if used too aggressively – which is tempting to do at first.
If it feels like your skin can handle more without reacting, then it’s okay to slowly increase as your skin allows. If you notice that your face is stinging and red, or otherwise angry afterward, it’s time to take a step back. You may need to decrease the frequency of use, decrease pressure with your physical exfoliant, or switch to a milder chemical formulation (like lactic or glycolic acid rather than a retinoid). It’s also worth considering your whole skincare routine and avoiding using other potentially irritating products right after you exfoliate. Normal skin can typically handle 5 to 7 times a week with a gentle exfoliant. I like to use my chemical exfoliant wash in the evening to totally remove dirt, oil, make-up and sunscreen from the day.
However, if you have more sensitive skin or rosacea you may only be able to exfoliate once a week. If you know you are sensitive, don’t overdo it! Stick to a gentle exfoliant and make sure to moisturize immediately after to lock in moisture and limit irritation and redness.
WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A PRODUCT TO USE AT HOME
Your over-the-counter options for exfoliating are almost endless.
Picking a product that will work for you depends on your skin type and your major concerns. If you have dry or sensitive skin, you might have problems tolerating harsh scrubbing products, while someone with oily or acne-prone skin would be able to tolerate them more easily. Here a few suggestions that I tend to reach for…
This cleanses without irritation or over-drying with botanical anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredients like: Willow Bark Extract (a botanical source of Salicylic acid), Date Fruit Extract, Orange Fruit Extract and just the perfect touch of Menthol to make you feel like you just went to the spa!
This scrub is fabulous for all skin types, especially great if you struggle with both breakouts and dry, sensitive skin. It contains jojoba beads that are a gentle way to exfoliate, and the addition of willow bark is an excellent way to naturally fight pimples.
This hydrating serum contains 20% glycolic acid for fabulous exfoliation without drying out your skin. I alternate this one with my prescription Retin-A/tretinoin cream at night for anti-aging superpower without irritation.
This is a fun combination of 2% dioic acid with alpha and beta hydroxy acids prevent blemishes while diminishing hyperpigmentation and reducing wrinkles and fine lines. You can even use this one to spot treat pimples!
This is the cream of the crop for exfoliating and collagen production! But watch out for possible irritation with this one. It’s worth asking your derm about this one for great skin texture and tone.
We all have heard about fish oil (AKA Omega-3 oils) for heart health, for improving our joints and for brain health. So it might surprise you to learn about some serious skin benefits too!
When it comes to healthy skin, most of us concentrate on what we are applying on the surface. But what you put in your body can be just as important as what you put on it. Taking Omega-3 fish oils can help with everything from acne and eczema to wrinkles!
A LITTLE BACKGROUND:
Fish oil contains 2 main types of Omega-3 fatty acids (though there are 8 total types): docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA). DHA works to keep the brain functioning at its best and is a structural component of your skin, a crucial element in maintaining healthy cell membranes. EPA specifically benefits your skin by acting as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and regulator for oil production.
LET’S BREAK DOWN SOME OF THE BENEFITS OF OMEGA-3S FOR YOUR SKIN.
HERE ARE 7 FABULOUS BENEFITS…
1) SKIN HYDRATION
Omega-3 oils are amazing at skin hydration from the inside out. As you get older, your skin thins and holds less moisture resulting in dry, flaking skin. Omega-3 oils allow your skin cells to retain water more efficiently to keep your skin hydrated, pump and soft.
BENEFITS:
More youthful looking skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles caused by dry skin and overuse of irritating products
Relief from eczema! Even kids with dry skin and eczema issues can benefit from Omega-3 oils
2) REDUCTION IN INFLAMMATION
Omega-3 oils naturally exist in the membranes of immune cells and are important for your immune system. Inflamed skin can result in redness, itching and scale. Boosting your intake can reduce inflammation in your body and your skin!
BENEFITS:
Improvement in inflammatory issues like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and eczema
Soothing skin that is inflamed from a dry or harsh environment (think everything from snow skiing to chlorinated swimming pools or even a day at the beach with the sun, salt water, and sand)
3) SMOOTHER SKIN
Omega-3 oils prevent hyperkeratinization. What is this you ask? This is when skin cells stick together and clog your pores/hair follicles (FYI: your pores and hair follicles are the same thing!).
BENEFITS:
Improvement in the appearance of those little red bumps you may get on the back of their arms or thighs, known in the derm world as keratosis pilaris
Unclogging of pores and smoothing out the skin’s surface, giving a glowing appearance
4) REDUCTION IN ACNE
Acne is an inflammatory condition. Even if you have acne that doesn’t look inflamed (think clogged pores and blackheads), research has shown that it has markers for inflammation.
Omega-3 oils work as a serious anti-inflammatory and also help to regulate the production of oil in your skin.
BENEFITS:
Both of these factors help in reducing those frustrating acne breakouts!
5) PROTECTION AGAINST ENVIRONMENTAL AND SUN DAMAGE
Eat your protection. EPA is both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, working to repair cells that have been damaged by environmental toxins and protect your skin against UV damage. EPA has been found in studies to block the release of the UV-induced enzymes that eat away at your collagen. Yes, there are bad enzyme reactions that can destroy your healthy collagen!
BENEFITS:
Reduction of UV damage to skin.
Protection against aging from sun damage.
But don’t forget your sunscreen!
6) SLOW DOWN THE AGING PROCESS
OMEGA-3 OILS ARE POWERFUL ANTIOXIDANTS!
This combined with their anti-inflammatory properties make these essential fatty acid superheros that boost your skin’s collagen production.
BENEFITS:
Increased production of healthy collagen
Strengthening structure and firmness of your skin, preventing lines and sagging
Is There a Correct Order to Apply Your Skincare Products?
THE ANSWER IS YES!
Don’t you just love the right product that makes your skin feel soft and smooth? Or even better, one that is full of antioxidants or a sheer zinc-based product that protects you from the harmful rays of the sun? But if your routine has two or three or five products it can be tough to decide which goes on first (or second or third)!
WHY DOES THE ORDER YOU APPLY PRODUCTS MATTER?
You want to be sure your products to penetrate into your skin and do what they are meant to do. This can be a problem if you’re putting thin, fluid or water-based products on top of thick, creamy or oily ones. The richer products will form a barrier on your skin that will prevent the other products from getting through.
This in turn can make your products less effective. If certain products aren’t able to absorb into your skin properly, you’re likely not getting their full benefits.
HERE ARE THE BASICS…
Water-based before oil-based products:
Start with your water-based products, such as toners and serums. Heavier, more moisturizing creams and oils come next, followed by sunscreen.
This makes sense because as we all know, oil and water don’t mix. Oil acts as a barrier and will block a water-based product from penetrating into your skin.
Thinnest to thickest texture:
Apply lighter products before heavy ones.
If you have a couple of water-based products or serums they can be layered on top of each other, and there shouldn’t be an issue with the penetration of one versus the other. When applying your moisturizing oil-based products begin with lighter lotions, then thicker moisturizers followed by oils.
In other words, apply those water-based products in any sequence you like, then oil-based products afterward. Think of oil-based products as the icing on the cake!
WHAT IF YOU USE A TOPICAL PRESCRIPTION MEDICATION?
Once you throw prescription medications into the mix, application order becomes more important. Topical prescriptions such as retinoids, steroids, and antibiotics beat out cosmetic products every time, and you need to ensure you’re getting the full dosage of your topical medication. Any topical medication that has been prescribed for you should go on first after you cleanse (and tone – if you use a toner) because medicines are absorbed best when the skin is damp, and when there’s nothing between the skin and the medicine.
Applying a serum or moisturizer before a topical prescription medication basically dilutes your medication. That said, if you’re using something that’s known to be irritating (such as a retinoid, like retinol or Retin-A/tretinoin), and you have sensitive skin, I recommend mixing it with your moisturizer or putting it on after moisturizer to soften the blow a little.
An important side note that also pertains to prescription retinoids, is that some over-the-counter active ingredients can interfere with the effectiveness of retinoids when used during the same routine. In particular, benzoyl peroxide can deactivate certain retinoids when used at the same time. If you use any benzoyl peroxide product and a retinoid, apply one in the morning and one at night.
WHAT ABOUT SUNSCREEN?
Most medical experts and scientists agree that sunscreen is always the final step in your daytime skincare routine. This is exactly how sunscreens are tested to earn their SPF rating: Nothing goes over them. Any skin care product you apply over a sunscreen dilutes and reduces its effectiveness.
Sunscreens are divided into two camps, physical and chemical. They work in two different ways, like a sponge or like a shield.
Physical sunscreens contain minerals (like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) that create a barrier on your skin to block out harmful rays.
Chemical sunscreens (look for ingredients like oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, or octinoxate) absorb the sun’s rays.
When you mix your SPF with another medium like moisturizer, you run the risk of diluting your sunscreen’s effectiveness or canceling it out altogether.
I know I said oils go on last, but technically, sunscreen is the absolute last step. Your other products are working to penetrate and treat your skin, but sunscreen does not need to penetrate into your skin. It’s there to protect your face and act as armor against the outside world.
Just make sure you are using an SPF of 30 or higher!
It is true that a foundation or tinted moisturizer will hide imperfections or discolorations on your skin best if it is the last thing you apply. I’m often asked if applying foundation that doesn’t contain sunscreen over the sunscreen you’ve just applied will diminish the sunscreen’s ability to protect skin. It won’t if you follow these guidelines:
Wait 3–5 minutes for the sunscreen to set before applying foundation.
Apply the foundation in smooth, downward motions (no rubbing back and forth). You can also use a sponge or brush to gently press the foundation on.
Do not use excess pressure or over-blend.
DO YOU WANT TO AVOID MAKEUP ALTOGETHER? THEN USE A TINTED SUNSCREEN OR A CC CREAM WITH SPF TO DO BOTH JOBS AT ONCE!
(AND IT DOESN’T MEAN THAT YOU NECESSARILY NEED ALL OF THESE STEPS)
Step 1: Cleanse and/or exfoliate. You can learn more about exfoliating here.
Step 2: Use a toner, spray or essence
Step 3: Apply eye cream
Step 4: Use any topical prescriptions or spot treatments
Step 5: Apply antioxidant serum or retinol/Retin-A/tretinoin (night only)
Step 6: Apply moisturizer (thinnest to thickest)
Step 7: Apply face oil
Step 8: If in morning – apply your SPF/sun protection. Learn more about sun protection here.
Step 9: If wearing – gently apply makeup as to not disturb SPF
MORNING VS NIGHT?
Best to focus on products that “protect” your skin—SPF, primers, BB and CC creams—for the morning time, and “correct” your skin in the night, such as heavier moisturizers and retinol products. The “correcting” or treatment products will stay on your skin longest with nighttime application. And your skin needs the protective products during the day to help fight against damaging sun rays and pollutants.
BTW – antioxidant serums both protect and correct, so they can be used morning or night! I use a vitamin C serum (Evolve 20% Vitamin C Serum) in the morning and Evolve HA serum twice a day.
Evolve 20% Vitamin C Serum
(with ferulic acid, vitamin e, and botanical HA)
Evolve Advanced HA Serum
(with antioxidants and organic green tea extract)
Pauli Morrow, MMSc, PA-C
The bottom line…
Using skin care products should be gratifying and make you feel good about your skin! Don’t stress about it too much, sticking to a precise application order ultimately won’t make or break your skin-care routine.
If you are using a prescription product, always check with your derm provider before introducing a new product to make sure it’s compatible with your topical meds. You want to ensure that your prescription will most effectively treat what it is intended to!
If your routine is just for fun or self-care, just do your best and don’t agonize over the details too much!
How can you limit bruising with Botox and cosmetic fillers?
Let me start by saying that even the best injectors in the country can give a patient a bruise with any of the cosmetic injectables. Sometimes these things just happen! The good news is that they tend to not be a big problem and let’s see if I can teach you a few tricks to help as much as possible.
The first thing to keep in mind is when you schedule your procedure, make sure you don’t have any important work or social events for about a week just to be safe. If you bruise easily, you may need to plan for up to 2 weeks to completely heal. If your event is something more important, like a wedding or a reunion, I would recommend having fillers done at least 3 weeks before the big day.
What exactly is a bruise?
The bruises we are focusing on here occur as a result of traumatic injury with a sharp needle to the blood vessels near the surface of your skin. Once the blood vessel wall is broken, the blood leaks to the surface and pools within the tissue there. As the blood sits, it becomes darker in color and can be seen under the skin as a black and blue discoloration. In order for the bruise to resolve, the blood needs to be absorbed back into your body.
What can you do ahead of time to try to avoid getting a bruise?
Here are some things that you can actively do to help:
Apply and/or take orally (it dissolves under your tongue) homeopathic Arnica Montana for 2 days prior to your appointment. You can find Arnica Montana at some pharmacies and natural food groceries (like Whole Foods, Vitamin Cottage and Natural Grocers). Make sure to read the label and follow the instructions on the bottle or tube (if it is a gel).
Try eating pineapple 2-3 times a day for 2 days prior to injections. Or take bromelain (a pineapple-based enzyme). But keep in mind with this, the evidence of helping is only anecdotal! So if you don’t like pineapple, don’t worry about it.
Here are some oral medications, vitamins and supplements to AVOID for at least 10 days prior to your procedure: Some of these medications and supplements may be needed for medical reasons, so check with your doctor first. The reason to stop these is that they make your blood less likely to clot, which makes bruising more likely. If you are on warfarin (Coumadin) or Plavix, stay on it unless you get the okay from your doctor to discontinue.
So these are the biggies to AVOID:
Over-the-Counter Medications:
Aspirin
Ibuprofen (Advil, Motrin)
Naproxen Sodium (Aleve)
Midol, Excedrin, and some cold medicines (check the label for the above listed ingredients)
If you need something for pain it is no problem to take Tylenol (acetaminophen).
Another thing to avoid is drinking alcohol 1-2 days prior to your procedure. Alcohol is a vasodilator, so drinking can increase your chances of bruising.
Oops…You bruised. Now what?
Your bruise will last about 5-10 days and rarely longer.
How can I help my bruise go away more quickly?
Avoid drinking alcohol 24 hours after having your injections done.
None of the over-the-counter medicines, vitamins or supplements listed previously for 2 days post procedure.
topical vitamin K cream can be applied to speed resolution. We carry Auriderm (vitamin K cream) in our office for convenience.
I frequently do an IPL treatment on the bruise for patients 1 to 2 days after your procedure. This is quick and easily done in about a 10 minute appointment in the office. If you are interested in this, just book it the day you are in for Botox or filler or call the office if you realize after your procedure that you may benefit from this.
Can I cover the bruise?
Sure! This can be difficult at times, but some concealer can come in handy to hide those dark bruises. I have been told that one good technique is to put very thin layer of concealer on, then use a light layer of powder over to set it. You can repeat it two to three times to build up more coverage. The last layer should be powder – but be careful so that it doesn’t look too cakey. If the bruise is on your lip, then lipstick should do the trick.
Good luck and know that a bruise is not harmful, it just can be an unsightly inconvenience for a while!
Safe and Chemical-Free Skin Care: How to Avoid Harmful Ingredients.
DO YOU KNOW WHAT YOU ARE PUTTING ON YOUR SKIN?
I have been guilty of running through a store and quickly grabbing a product with a fancy label and promises to fight wrinkles or make your skin glow. But what is in this random product?
What goes on your skin does seep beyond the skin’s surface. Wouldn’t it be nice to know that what you are using is not only good for your skin but safe for your whole body?
HOW COULD HARMFUL CHEMICALS BE ALLOWED IN SKIN CARE PRODUCTS?
Believe it or not, the skin care industry is highly unregulated. A minuscule approval process with the FDA exists, but only for color additives and ingredients classified as over-the-counter drugs. This means that unhealthy and irritating chemicals could be in the products you are using right now.
WHAT INGREDIENTS SHOULD YOU AVOID?
HERE ARE THE TOP 8 CHEMICALS TO AVOID:
PARABENS:
WHAT ARE PARABENS?
These are preservatives added to prevent the growth of bacteria, mold, and yeast. Ultimately, they are used to prolong the shelf-life of a product. Researchers have found that 85%-90% of personal care items (such as toothpaste, shampoos, lotions, and cleansers) contain measurable amounts of parabens.
WHY SHOULD YOU AVOID PARABENS?
They have estrogen-mimicking properties that have been linked to endocrine disruption and the growth of breast cancer cells. It was reported in a 2004 research study that parabens were actually found in breast cancer tumors. The big concern is that cumulative exposure to parabens may contribute to developmental disorders, fertility problems, and possibly breast cancer.
WHAT IS THE FDA’S TAKE ON THIS?
The FDA acknowledges that several studies have linked parabens to breast cancer but has ruled parabens as not harmful. One interesting side note is that the European Union banned parabens in 2012 but then approved use in 2014 in limited amounts in products that rinse off (like shampoos and shower gels).
HOW DO YOU MAKE SURE YOU’RE NOT USING PARABENS?
Look for “paraben free” on the label. Another way is to avoid ingredients that end with the suffix “-paraben.” These are words like: methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, and isobutylparaben.
SYNTHETIC/ARTIFICIAL COLORS:
HOW DO YOU KNOW IF A COLOR IS SYNTHETIC?
If you take a look at your product label and notice FD&C or D&C followed by a color and a number, they represent artificial colors.
WHY AVOID THESE SYNTHETIC COLORS?
Many of these synthetic colors are derived from coal tar sources. Coal tar is a mixture of many chemicals, derived from petroleum. Coal tar is recognized as a human carcinogen and the main concern with coal tar colors is their potential to cause cancer. Additionally, coal tar can contain traces of heavy metal salts that can cause skin sensitivity and irritation. Synthetic colors are suspected to be a human carcinogen and a skin irritant.
WHAT DOES THE FDA SAY ABOUT THIS?
Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act indicates some colors approved by the FDA for use in foods, drugs, and cosmetics. One example is colors labeled D and C are not approved for use in food (just drugs and cosmetics). If they are too harmful to eat, do we really want to put these products on our skin?
HOW DO I AVOID SYNTHETIC COLORS?
Thankfully, it’s pretty simple to determine if those bright colors we love are real or not. Just check the label, and steer clear if any of the ingredients begin with a number or the letters D&C.
ARTIFICIAL FRAGRANCE:
HOW DO I KNOW IF A FRAGRANCE IS ARTIFICIAL?
Fragrance mixtures can be composed of dozens, even hundreds of individual chemicals which don’t have to be listed on the label. If you see the word “fragrance” or “parfum” listed on the ingredients list, it is likely that it is artificial.
WHY AVOID THEM?
The idea of artificial fragrance is pretty scary, because what does “fragrance” mean anyway? This term was created by the FDA to protect the product’s “secret fragrance formula.” But you could be putting on a concoction that contains tons of chemicals that are irritants and hazardous to your health. Somewhere close to 3000 chemicals are used in fragrances. According to the Environmental Working Group (EWG), fragrance mixes have been associated with allergies, dermatitis, and potential effects on the reproductive system.
According to the American Academy of Dermatology (AAD), fragrance is the number one cause of contact dermatitis in cosmetic products and its prevalence is on the rise.
Additionally, some studies have shown that synthetic musks can build up in our bodies and may enhance the impact of other toxic chemicals. These synthetic musks also contaminate waterways and wildlife. Phthalates, which have been linked to hormone disruption (see Phthalates below), have also been found in synthetic fragrance.
WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK?
It’s interesting to note that every other ingredient used in personal care products must, as stated by the FDA, be listed on the label, but fragrance is considered a “trade secret” and is not required to be listed.
“FDA does not have the same legal authority to require allergen labeling for cosmetics as for food. So, if you are concerned about fragrance sensitivities, you may want to … contact the manufacturer directly,” according to the FDA.
HOW DO YOU AVOID ARTIFICIAL FRAGRANCE IN MY PRODUCTS?
The best fragrances are found in essential oils and natural botanicals. If “fragrance” or “parfum” is listed on the label, put it back on the shelf. Or simply look for “fragrance-free” on the label.
TRICLOSAN:
What is Triclosan?
Triclosan was all the rage as antibacterial products started coming out in the 1990s. It is a synthetic preservative and antibacterial agent that can be found in toothpastes, antiperspirants/deodorants, laundry detergent, facial tissues, hand sanitizers, and antibacterial soaps. Triclosan is best known for its germ-killing power. The most likely place you will see it is in hand soaps and body washes that are labeled “anti-bacterial”.
But make sure to check your toothpaste too. The FDA approved it after reviewing data showing that it prevents gum disease.
WHY AVOID TRICLOSAN?
The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) actually labels it as a pesticide! If that isn’t enough to convince you to stop using products with triclosan, know that not all bacteria is bad for you and triclosan works so well as an antibacterial agent that it could give rise to harmful bacteria that is resistant to antibiotics. In fact, studies have shown that washing with antibacterial soaps containing triclosan doesn’t provide any benefit over washing with regular soap and water.
And children exposed to these compounds at an early age also have an increased chance of developing allergies, asthma, and eczema.
The European Union classifies triclosan as irritating to the skin and eyes, and as very toxic to aquatic organisms. So not only is triclosan bad for you, it’s terrible for the environment.
WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK?
Even the FDA agrees that there is “no health benefit to humans” to use triclosan. But if used, triclosan must be listed on the product label.
HOW DO I AVOID TRICLOSAN?
If you are using an antibacterial agent, triclosan should be listed as an ingredient on the label.
Put your inner germaphobe at ease and know that water and regular soap will more than handle dirt and germs. Instead of looking for antibacterial products, reach for naturally antibacterial and antiseptic agents like tea tree oil.
Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS) are surfactants that can be found in more than 90 percent of personal care and cleaning products. These sulfates are what make shampoos, shower gels, and facial cleansers have bubbles and foam.
WHY AVOID SLS AND SLES?
Sulfates are known to be skin, lung, and eye irritants. In addition, sulfates can dry out your hair and skin, resulting in split-ends, brittle hair, and maybe even itching. Despite a lot of internet chat about these surfactants being carcinogenic, there is not much concrete evidence to support this.
The only other factor to know is that these sulfates do not degrade easily, so are pollutants and are not the best for the environment.
WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK?
Not much. Just that the sulfates must be listed on the product label.
HOW DO I AVOID SLS AND SLES?
Look for “no sulfates” on the product or check the ingredients list for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate (ALS). Sulfates are especially common in shampoos.
FORMALDEHYDE:
Where do I find formaldehyde and what is it?
If you have ever dissected a frog in biology class, you know that formaldehyde smells terrible and is used as a preservative. Formaldehyde and formaldehyde-releasing preservatives (FRPs) are used in some skin care products to help prevent bacteria growth. These can be found in nail polish, body washes, conditioners, shampoos, facial cleansers, and some eye shadows. According to data from the FDA, nearly 1 in 5 cosmetic products contains a substance that generates formaldehyde.
WHY IS FORMALDEHYDE SOMETHING TO AVOID?
The FDA and EPA have classified formaldehyde as carcinogenic when its fumes are inhaled. It is also a potent skin sensitizer and allergen that can result in red irritated skin.
Of course, skin care companies don’t dump pure formaldehyde into their products. Instead, they commonly use something called “formaldehyde releasers.” These chemicals decompose over time to form formaldehyde. This process happens slowly as the products sit on the shelf of the store or your bathroom countertop.
WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK?
The FDA does not restrict the amount of formaldehyde that can be present in cosmetics sold in the U.S. But any formaldehyde or formaldehyde-releasers must be printed on the label.
HOW DO I AVOID FORMALDEHYDE?
Check the label carefully, both for the ingredient formaldehyde itself and for these common formaldehyde releasers:
DMDM hydantoin
Imidazolidinyl urea
Diazolidinyl urea
Quaternium-15
Bronopol (2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol )
5-Bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane
Hydroxymethylglycinate
PHTHALATES
WHAT IS A PHTHALATE?
Phthalates are industrial “plasticizers” that are used in skin care products to dissolve and coalesce ingredients, and to impart flexibility to nail polish after it dries. The main phthalates in personal care products are dibutyl phthalate in nail polish, diethyl phthalate in perfumes and lotions, and dimethyl phthalate in hair spray.
WHY SHOULD I AVOID PHTHALATES?
Phthalates are not inert substances: They have biological activity. In animal studies, both phthalates and parabens were found to act on estrogen pathways, which in humans have been associated with chronic diseases, cancers, and a host of developmental disorders and fertility problems. It has been stated by experts who have reviewed the literature that phthalates pose significant potential health concerns to humans.
WHAT DOES THE FDA HAVE TO SAY?
The FDA feels that phthalates do not pose known risks for human health as it is currently used in cosmetics and fragrances.
What the CDC has to say: “Human health effects from exposure to low levels of phthalates are unknown. Some types of phthalates have affected the reproductive system of laboratory animals. More research is needed to assess the human health effects of exposure to phthalates.”
HOW DO I AVOID PHTHALATES?
Phthalates are required to be listed on the product label … unless they are one of the ingredients in a fragrance. Ingredients used in fragrances are considered “trade secrets” by the FDA and are exempt from labelling requirements. Industry sources have indicated that phthalates do not appear on the vast majority of products containing them because they are components of fragrance. This gives consumers little power to avoid phthalates in their purchases of personal care products.
If a product’s label says phthalate-free, that provides clarity. Otherwise, there’s no way to be sure. Bummer.
DEA (DIETHANOLAMINE) AND DEA-RELATED INGREDIENTS:
TEA (Triethanolamine) and MEA (Monoethanolamine) are DEA-Related Compounds
What exactly is DEA and related ingredients??
DEA (diethanolamine) and DEA compounds are used to make skin care products creamy or sudsy. DEA also acts as a pH adjuster, counteracting the acidity of other ingredients. DEA is found in all kinds of moisturizers, sunscreens, soaps, cleansers, and shampoos.
WHY AVOID DEA IN YOUR SKIN CARE PRODUCTS?
These substances are pretty harsh solvents and detergents and can cause allergic reactions and irritate your skin. But even worse, they have been found in lab studies (mostly done on animals) to cause certain types of cancers and organ toxicity.
WHAT DOES THE FDA THINK ABOUT DEA (DIETHANOLAMINE) AND RELATED INGREDIENTS?
The National Toxicology Program (NTP) completed a study in 1998 that found an association between the topical application of DEA and certain DEA-related ingredients and cancer in laboratory animals. But because the NTP study did not establish a link between DEA and the risk of cancer in humans, the FDA believes that at the present time there is no reason for consumers to be alarmed based on the use of these substances in cosmetics.
HOW DO I AVOID DEA AND DEA-LIKE COMPOUNDS?
Steer clear of any products with any ingredients containing the letters: DEA, MEA, or TEA.
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A Clean Skin Care Choice: Evolve Skin Care
At Evolution Dermatology we developed our own line of skin care with your skin and body health in mind.
Evolve Skin Care, is a medical-grade skin care product line that combines advanced science with active ingredients to transform your skin.
No Parabens + Plant Based + No Phathates + Cruelty-Free + No Artificial Fragrance + No Formaldehyde + No Artificial Colors + Non-Toxic + Chemical Free + Vegan
Made with the health of your skin in mind.
Come by our office and we can help you choose which Evolve Skin Care product will be best for you!
