Pros and Cons of Sunless Tanning Products

Pros and Cons of Sunless Tanning Products

by | Jul 19, 2022 | Self Tanner, Skin Care Products

Pros and Cons of Sunless Tanning Products

Hopefully you have a sunny trip on the horizon. Since you will be baring more skin than usual on your adventure, there is nothing better than sporting a faux glow!

How can we enjoy some bronzed skin without a downside?

ARE TANNING BEDS EVER SAFE?

Never.  The UV radiation from tanning beds (and of course the sun too) leads to skin damage, aging and skin cancer. Tanning beds are NEVER safe or good for your skin. Getting that “base tan” is only adding to your cumulative sun damage. In fact, indoor tanning beds increase your chances of developing melanoma by 20 percent.  Stay away from them all together.

HOW DO SELF TANNING PRODUCTS WORK?

Self tanners are actually not a stain or dye.  The products have an active ingredient and darkening agent called dihydroxy acetone (DHA).  It is considered safe by the FDA and is derived from beet or cane sugar which reacts with the amino acids in the top layer of skin. It is kind of like the browning of an avocado or a piece of fruit.  The darkening effect takes place in about four hours, and wears off when your outer layer of skin has naturally shed.

Another active ingredient in self-tanners is erythrulose.  It works similarly to DHA and is derived from raspberries and can be found in some more “natural” products and even Jergen’s tanning products (in combination with DHA).

 

ARE SUNLESS TANNING PRODUCTS HARMFUL?

Some products contain parabens.  This is something that you should avoid in any topical product that goes on your skin.  Parabens act as a preservative when added to products to create a longer shelf life.  But they have been linked to breast cancer and avoiding any ingredients that end in “-paraben” (like methylparaben, propylparaben, ethylparaben and butylparaben) is best.

I have known to avoid parabens for a while, but what I did not expect to find out is that there are also other potentially harmful chemicals to be aware of in tanning products.  In the past, I have always been a fan of getting a spray tan before a warm vacation – or using a self-tanner occasionally to help get a little color without the sun.  However, what I did not realize is that there are some potentially harmful effects that these can have.   

WHAT ARE THE HARMFUL EFFECTS OF DHA AND ERYTHRULOSE?

DHA and erythrulose were found in studies to have some unwanted side effects. DHA is FDA approved for topical use – but the FDA advises avoiding inhaling it (like with spray tans) and using it near mucus membranes (like eyes, nose and mouth).  Here you can read more from the FDA.  Humm…let’s find out why the advisory. 

Here’s the breakdown from what was found in studies:

DHA CAN TRIGGER FREE RADICALS.

Triggering free radicals is known as oxidative stress.  This study reported that DHA created free radicals which attack your cells and degrade collagen and elastin.  This means that DHA can actually CAUSE premature aging and sagging skin!   

DHA CAN ACCELERATE SUN DAMAGE.

I discovered that the DHA can accelerate sun damage if you go out into the sun. This study found that DHA-treated skin generates more than 180% additional radicals during sun exposure.  

Geez.  So to sum it up, DHA (the active ingredient in self tanners) can trigger free radicals and accelerate sun damage.  

Erythrulose (the other active ingredient in self tanners) has also been shown to increase production of free radicals similar to the effect seen with DHA, as reported in this study. 

HOWEVER, SELF TANNERS ARE STILL SAFER THAN EXCESS SUN EXPOSURE.

So, it seems that no self-tanning product is 100% safe and clean.  However, occasional use and avoiding inhaling a spray, is probably less of a worry.  There is no question that excessive sun exposure does lead to skin cancer.  If using a self tanning product keeps you from using a tanning bed or getting extra sun exposure in the hopes of getting tanned skin, then it may be a good choice for you. 

IS THERE ANY WAY TO SAFELY GET THAT FAUX GLOW?!

Where there is a will, I’ll sure try to find a way!  Here are some safer alternatives you may want to consider.  

I searched high and low and found this product that contains no parabens, no DHA and no erythrulose:

St. Tropez: Instant Glow Body Bronzer:  Amazon $25

100% DHA-free.  Give your skin an instant glow up that lasts all day with streak-free results that are transfer and water resistant. This is best for those looking for a quick fix or instant results with no commitment or for nervous tanners seeking a risk-free temporary glow up. I loved the way it went on smoothly and actually looked natural.

COOLA Organic Sunless Tan Anti-Aging Serum (with Beet-Derived DHA):  $54 in our office or on the COOLA website

COOLA crafted a product that is organic, paraben-free, sulfate-free, and contains ingredients like argon oil and antioxidants that can fight free radicals and potentially counteract any negative impact that DHA could cause.  This has not been specifically studied, but in theory this could be a positive impact on your skin.  

 

The Skinny on Exfoliating for the Best Skin Ever

The Skinny on Exfoliating for the Best Skin Ever

by | Jul 7, 2022 | Exfoliation, Healthy Skin, Skin Care Products, Skincare

The Skinny on Exfoliating for the Best Skin Ever

Exfoliation is one of my most favorite skincare steps. I love getting my skin back to its natural state – free of sunscreen, dead skin cells, make-up, and any pollutants from the day. It’s such a clean, refreshing feeling!

These days there are so many exfolitating options of scrubs, cleansers, masks, facials, dermaplaning, retinoids, and in-office peels.

With all of these choices you might be wondering what to choose! Then there is the questions if why exfoliate and how often should you exfoliate?

WHAT EXACTLY IS EXFOLIATING?

Remember this?!

Remember this? St. Ives Apricot Scrub.

I wouldn’t necessarily recommend this today, but my first exfoliating facial scrub was St Ives Apricot Scrub when I was a teen trying to help my acne. This was before I even knew anything about exfoliating and I was scrubbing my skin to the point of redness in hopes to control some unruly pimples! Now that I’m older, I am using more sophisticated products that are gentler and more targeted for keeping my skin smooth and fighting fines and wrinkles.

Officially, exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells from the surface of your skin using a chemical, granular substance, or exfoliation tool.

Mother Nature does her own job of exfoliating and your skin naturally sheds dead skin cells to make room for new cells every 30 days or so.  As the new skin cells mature, they travel from the lower layers of your skin to the top epidermal layer. Once they make it to that outer layer, the skin cells are dead.  And eventually, they’ll slough off as the newer cells will come to the surface. If dead cells don’t shed completely on their own, it can result in a dull skin tone, flaky patches and clogged pores.

Exfoliation helps your natural sloughing process along.  When done correctly, using an exfoliant can help clear off the dead skin cells and unclog pores, revealing newer, younger skin cells below.  That glow and brightness you are looking for…exfoliating can help you get that!

6 BENEFITS OF EXFOLIATING:

1) UNCLOGS PORES AND PREVENTS ACNE

Those frustrating clogged pores, that ultimately can turn into acne pimples, are the result of dead skin cells (along with other surface debris) getting trapped in your pores instead of being shed into the environment.  If you suffer from acne, your skin creates and sheds dead skin cells faster than someone who doesn’t break out. Someone with normal skin will shed about 30,000 – 40,000 dead skin cells AN HOUR. Acne sufferers’ skin can shed up to 5X that!

Sweeping away those dead skin cells and debris with exfoliation stops them from making their way into your pores and causing stubborn whiteheads and blackheads.  Someone who is prone to acne can greatly benefit from exfoliation at home and in a professional dermatology setting. I will typically recommend things like a topical retinoid prescription and/or an AHA cleanser for my acne patients to use and home.  Additionally, I love seeing the benefits of faster results and smooth skin when they come in for in-office glycolic and salicylic acid peels (see What’s Up with Chemical Facial Peels).

2) INCREASES CIRCULATION

Just the process of exfoliating can stimulate blood flow to the surface of your skin. This promotes collagen production, encourages healthy cells, and brightens your skin.

3) HELPS OTHER SKINCARE PRODUCTS PENETRATE DEEPER

Exfoliating your skin will help skincare products like antioxidant serums and moisturizers penetrate deeply into your skin to work more effectively. Removing those extra dead skin cells will get your skin to a state of maximum absorption, so those products that you really want to be workhorses for anti-aging penetrating deeper in the skin so that they can work their magic!

4) IMPROVES TONE AND REDUCES BROWN SPOTS/SUN DAMAGE

When your skin gets exposed to the sun, it makes a chemical called melanin to protect itself against further UV damage. Repeated exposure can cause a clump of melanin to form, which shows up as a flat brown or black spot By exfoliating, you can help fade these dark spots by encouraging new skin cells and improving the tone of your skin.

5) IMPROVES TEXTURE

Exfoliating increases your skin cell turnover rate. This means that it will promote new, healthy cells at the surface, and break down and remove the dead, dry, or dying ones. The result is soft skin, smooth texture, a more uniform appearance and a glow that we all strive for!

6) PROMOTES COLLAGEN SYNTHESIS

Collagen is a protein that acts as the structure for our skin and helps with elasticity.  It is what we are all trying to get more of (and keep from losing) in our skin to avoid lines, sagging, and wrinkles.

Continued and regular exfoliating over time has been shown to increase collagen production in your skin. Resulting in a complexion that is more plump, tight and young-looking.  Amen to that!

THERE ARE 2 TYPES OF EXFOLIATORS…

PHYSICAL AND CHEMICAL:

It sounds complicated, but they are doing a similar thing in different ways. Some people prefer chemical exfoliants over physical ones and vice versa, but it’s up to your specific needs. I actually use both!

PHYSICAL EXFOLIATORS

This is the type of exfoliation that involves you or someone else doing all of the work with either manual scrubbing, rubbing or shaving (in dermaplaning).

The skincare products in this category include: cleansing scrubs (containing beads, sugar, salt and other rough particles), body brushes (that you used by hand or motorized, like Clarisonic), loofahs, exfoliating mitts, and in-office microdermabrasion, dermaplaning, and microneedling.

Physical exfoliation can be effective, but care must be taken.  It is easy to overuse them or use them too harshly and cause redness, irritation and even pimples.  Make sure to use these gently and look for tiny scrubbing particles that won’t scratch or damage your skin. One tip is to follow up with a humectant moisturizer or hyaluronic acid serum to minimize irritation and lock in moisture.

CHEMICAL EXFOLIATORS

This method uses different chemicals, including acids, retinoids, or enzymes.  The benefit of these is that they not only exfoliate the surface dead skin cells away, but also to break the bonds between cells to renew your skin even further and offer more dramatic results.  Chemical exfoliants might come in a wash labeled for acne or anti-aging, in a serum, in an at-home peel, or a peel at your dermatology or esthetician office. The difference between a peel at an esthetician office and derm office is strength.  In a derm office we can go deeper and do stronger peels. I love doing peels and we have a big variety to choose from!

Some examples of chemical exfoliants include:

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) – glycolic (from sugar), lactic (from milk), citrus (from citric fruits), mandelic (from almonds) and malic acids (from apples).

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs) – salicylic acid (from willow trees).

Poly Hydroxy Acids (PHAs) – gluconolactone (made from an acid found in fruit, honey and wine) and lactobionic acid (a sugar acid).

Retinoids – over-the-counter retinol and adapalene (Differin gel), and prescriptions including:  tretinoin (Retin A), tazarotene (Tazorac) and alitretinoin (Altreno).

Enzymes – common ones are from fruits including: papaya, pineapple, blueberry, or pumpkin.

I realize that there are a lot of chemical choices out there.  Take care choosing, because just as with physical exfoliation, chemical exfoliation can irritate the skin if done incorrectly. If you’re unsure about how to incorporate a chemical product into your skincare routine, make an appointment for a little guidance.

HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU BE EXFOLIATING?

Believe it or not, you can exfoliate TOO much!  The satisfaction of scrubbing the negative and wrong doings off your face cannot be denied.  At times it’s tempting to be aggressive and over exfoliate. But taking too much of that protective barrier on your skin’s surface can result in a red and irritated face.  The best way to know you are on the right track is to see the glowing results without irritation. Slow and steady is the key! It sounds simple, but ultimately you can exfoliate as often as your skin will tolerate it.

The best way to see what your skin can tolerate is to start with an exfoliator once or twice a week, preferably introducing a chemical exfoliator before a physical one. Chemical ones tend to be less intense and more evenly applied.  Physical ones like scrubs tend to cause more irritation if used too aggressively – which is tempting to do at first.

If it feels like your skin can handle more without reacting, then it’s okay to slowly increase as your skin allows. If you notice that your face is stinging and red, or otherwise angry afterward, it’s time to take a step back.  You may need to decrease the frequency of use, decrease pressure with your physical exfoliant, or switch to a milder chemical formulation (like lactic or glycolic acid rather than a retinoid). It’s also worth considering your whole skincare routine and avoiding using other potentially irritating products right after you exfoliate. Normal skin can typically handle 5 to 7 times a week with a gentle exfoliant.  I like to use my chemical exfoliant wash in the evening to totally remove dirt, oil, make-up and sunscreen from the day.

However, if you have more sensitive skin or rosacea you may only be able to exfoliate once a week.  If you know you are sensitive, don’t overdo it! Stick to a gentle exfoliant and make sure to moisturize immediately after to lock in moisture and limit irritation and redness.

Benefits of exfoliation on the skin

WHAT TO LOOK FOR IN A PRODUCT TO USE AT HOME

Your over-the-counter options for exfoliating are almost endless.

Picking a product that will work for you depends on your skin type and your major concerns. If you have dry or sensitive skin, you might have problems tolerating harsh scrubbing products, while someone with oily or acne-prone skin would be able to tolerate them more easily.  Here a few suggestions that I tend to reach for…

CLEANSERS:

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Epionce Lytic Gel Cleanser

This cleanses without irritation or over-drying with botanical anti-inflammatory and soothing ingredients like: Willow Bark Extract (a botanical source of Salicylic acid), Date Fruit Extract, Orange Fruit Extract and just the perfect touch of Menthol to make you feel like you just went to the spa!

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SKINCEUTICALS MICRO-EXFOLIATING SCRUB

With hydrated silica beads are used to exfoliate instead of micro plastic beads of the past so that it is better for the environment.

Neutrogena Naturals Purifying Pore Scrub .jpeg

Neutrogena Naturals Purifying Pore Scrub

This scrub is fabulous for all skin types, especially great if you struggle with both breakouts and dry, sensitive skin. It contains jojoba beads that are a gentle way to exfoliate, and the addition of willow bark is an excellent way to naturally fight pimples.

LEAVE-ON EXFOLIANTS:

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Epionce Lytic Tx

Apply this product at night to help with fine lines and wrinkles as well as fight those stubborn pimples with both Salicylic acid and Azelaic acid!

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SkinCeuticals Retexurizing Activator

This hydrating serum contains 20% glycolic acid for fabulous exfoliation without drying out your skin. I alternate this one with my prescription Retin-A/tretinoin cream at night for anti-aging superpower without irritation.

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SkinCeuticals Blemish + Age

This is a fun combination of 2% dioic acid with alpha and beta hydroxy acids prevent blemishes while diminishing hyperpigmentation and reducing wrinkles and fine lines. You can even use this one to spot treat pimples!

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Prescription Only Retin-A/Tretinoin Cream

This is the cream of the crop for exfoliating and collagen production! But watch out for possible irritation with this one. It’s worth asking your derm about this one for great skin texture and tone.

The Secret to Healthy Skin: Take Your Fish Oil!

The Secret to Healthy Skin: Take Your Fish Oil!

by | Jul 7, 2022 | Healthy Skin, Skincare, Supplements

The Secret to Healthy Skin: Take Your Fish Oil!

THAT’S RIGHT, TAKE YOUR FISH OIL!

We all have heard about fish oil (AKA Omega-3 oils) for heart health, for improving our joints and for brain health. So it might surprise you to learn about some serious skin benefits too!

When it comes to healthy skin, most of us concentrate on what we are applying on the surface. But what you put in your body can be just as important as what you put on it. Taking Omega-3 fish oils can help with everything from acne and eczema to wrinkles!

A LITTLE BACKGROUND:

Fish oil contains 2 main types of Omega-3 fatty acids (though there are 8 total types): docosahexaenoic acid (DHA) and eicosapentaenoic acid (EPA). DHA works to keep the brain functioning at its best and is a structural component of your skin, a crucial element in maintaining healthy cell membranes. EPA specifically benefits your skin by acting as an antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and regulator for oil production.

LET’S BREAK DOWN SOME OF THE BENEFITS OF OMEGA-3S FOR YOUR SKIN.

HERE ARE 7 FABULOUS BENEFITS…

1) SKIN HYDRATION

Benefits of Fish oil on your skin

Omega-3 oils are amazing at skin hydration from the inside out. As you get older, your skin thins and holds less moisture resulting in dry, flaking skin. Omega-3 oils allow your skin cells to retain water more efficiently to keep your skin hydrated, pump and soft.

BENEFITS:

  • More youthful looking skin by reducing fine lines and wrinkles caused by dry skin and overuse of irritating products

  • Relief from eczema! Even kids with dry skin and eczema issues can benefit from Omega-3 oils

2) REDUCTION IN INFLAMMATION

REDUCTION IN INFLAMMATION

Omega-3 oils naturally exist in the membranes of immune cells and are important for your immune system. Inflamed skin can result in redness, itching and scale. Boosting your intake can reduce inflammation in your body and your skin!

BENEFITS:

  • Improvement in inflammatory issues like psoriasis, atopic dermatitis and eczema

  • Soothing skin that is inflamed from a dry or harsh environment (think everything from snow skiing to chlorinated swimming pools or even a day at the beach with the sun, salt water, and sand)

3) SMOOTHER SKIN

benefits of fish oil is smoother skin

Omega-3 oils prevent hyperkeratinization. What is this you ask? This is when skin cells stick together and clog your pores/hair follicles (FYI: your pores and hair follicles are the same thing!).

BENEFITS:

  • Improvement in the appearance of those little red bumps you may get on the back of their arms or thighs, known in the derm world as keratosis pilaris

  • Unclogging of pores and smoothing out the skin’s surface, giving a glowing appearance

4) REDUCTION IN ACNE

Fish oil can help with acne

Acne is an inflammatory condition. Even if you have acne that doesn’t look inflamed (think clogged pores and blackheads), research has shown that it has markers for inflammation.

Omega-3 oils work as a serious anti-inflammatory and also help to regulate the production of oil in your skin.

BENEFITS:

  • Both of these factors help in reducing those frustrating acne breakouts!

5) PROTECTION AGAINST ENVIRONMENTAL AND SUN DAMAGE

fish oil can help reduce acne

Eat your protection. EPA is both an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory, working to repair cells that have been damaged by environmental toxins and protect your skin against UV damage. EPA has been found in studies to block the release of the UV-induced enzymes that eat away at your collagen. Yes, there are bad enzyme reactions that can destroy your healthy collagen!

BENEFITS:

  • Reduction of UV damage to skin.

  • Protection against aging from sun damage.

    But don’t forget your sunscreen!

6) SLOW DOWN THE AGING PROCESS

fish oil can help slow down the aging process

OMEGA-3 OILS ARE POWERFUL ANTIOXIDANTS!

This combined with their anti-inflammatory properties make these essential fatty acid superheros that boost your skin’s collagen production.

BENEFITS:

  • Increased production of healthy collagen

  • Strengthening structure and firmness of your skin, preventing lines and sagging

Reverse the Signs of Weathering and Sun Damage with IPL?

Reverse the Signs of Weathering and Sun Damage with IPL?

by | Jul 7, 2022 | IPL, Sun Damage

Reverse the Signs of Weathering and Sun Damage with IPL?

Is it possible to get rid of sun damage, red vessels, and brown spots?

IPL is one of the best treatments to do just that!

But What the heck is IPL? And Can it work for you?

I’m sure you have some memories of playing or relaxing in the sun … warm, fun, on the sandy beach or maybe boating or playing at the pool.  But all that fabulous sun can leave you with some unwanted sun damage.  Evidence of sun exposure can show up as blotchiness, freckles, brown pigment, and small blood vessels (telangiectasia) on your face, neck, and chest and even brown spots on the backs of your hands.

This is what the IPL machine looks like.

WHAT EXACTLY IS IPL?

The primary goal of IPL (Intense Pulsed Light) is to make your skin tone or color more even.  It was approved by the FDA in 1995, and is a quick and powerful flash of light that is similar to laser.  But instead of a single wavelength of light as with a laser, IPL uses a broad spectrum of light that is selective for pigment and small blood vessels (or redness).  The light energy penetrates just below the skin’s surface and destroys either the brown pigment or red blood vessels – but leaves your surrounding normal skin alone.  Pretty cool technology!

COULD I BENEFIT FROM IPL TREATMENTS?

Anyone with photodamage that appears as blotchiness, discoloration, brown spots, or small blood vessels (telangiectasia) could benefit from IPL procedures. Additionally, one of the most gratified groups of patients that see results are those with rosacea, a type of adult acne and skin inflammation. The IPL can reduce the acne component of rosacea, telangiectasia, generalized redness, and even flushing.

BOTTOM LINE … FLUSHING, SMALL VESSELS, BROWN SPOTS, DISCOLORATION AND ACNE CAN BE IMPROVED WITH IPL!

A side benefit from multiple treatments (approx. 3-5) with IPL is that it also can help reduce pore size and improve skin texture and laxity by promoting collagen production. The light not only has an impact on the surface of the skin but also heats the cells in the deeper layer of skin. These cells, called fibroblasts, are stimulated to produce more collagen, which improves texture and skin laxity.  Nice side benefit!

WHAT AREAS CAN BE TREATED?

Your face, neck, chest, backs of hands, and sometimes arms (depending on your skin type – you must have fair skin for the arms).

WHAT DO I NEED TO DO BEFORE I BOOK AN IPL SESH?

Make sure you don’t have tanned skin (even a fake one), as that’ll mess with the machine’s ability to target the unwanted pigment.  And it helps NOT to wear makeup when you arrive for your appointment (especially mascara – it tends to get everywhere with the eye shields).

WHAT IS THE TREATMENT LIKE?  WILL IT HURT?!

Here is how it goes down at our office…

You will be asked to arrive about 15 minutes before your treatment time and topical numbing cream will be placed on the area to be treated.  Once you are comfortable and numb, I will take the cream off and place eye shields over your eyes.  Next cold gel (actually ultrasound gel) goes on the area.  I’ll talk to you during the procedure so that you know what is going on (since you have on eye shields).

The IPL handpiece has a clear rectangular, flat crystal that is placed on your skin with each pulse of light.  The pulse is a hot, sharp snap.  And I won’t lie – it hurts a bit, but is mostly startling because of the bright light.  It takes about 15-20 minutes for a full face to be treated.  Sometimes I will use multiple passes and settings depending on what we are treating.

After the treatment, I’ll take off the gel, remove the eye shields, clean your face (or whichever area we are treating) a bit and rub on a soothing firming mask.  Lastly, I add a tinted mineral sunscreen before you leave.  If you bring makeup, you can also put that on before you are on your way.

WHAT WILL I LOOK LIKE JUST AFTER A TREATMENT?  IS THERE DOWNTIME?

This is what your brown pigment/spots may look like after the treatment. Almost like coffee grounds. Makeup can be applied on top because the skin is not broken at all.

Immediately after the treatment the area will be red (like a sunburn) in some areas and any brown pigment or spots will look darker brown.  But the advantage is that there is NO broken skin.  NO scabs or open areas to care for.

SO ULTIMATELY THAT MEANS THERE IS LITTLE TO NO DOWNTIME!

The red areas will look better in a few hours.  Any of the brown pigment will turn darker brown and the next day will be small crusts that look similar to coffee grounds. The darker areas will last 7-10 days before falling off or fading away. One secret is that after a week if you still have the coffee ground look, you can DIY a paste of baking soda and water and GENTLY exfoliate them off.

Very rarely, someone will experience swelling under their eyes and upper cheeks the next morning after the treatment. If this happens, it may last 5-7 days at the most. Another rare possibility is a bruise. This can happen when blood vessels are treated, but resolves on its own in a few days.

ARE THERE NEGATIVE COMPLICATIONS THAT CAN HAPPEN?

IPL is safe and the technology has been perfected over the 20+ years it has been around.  But for an operator who isn’t experienced with using IPL, it can be tricky because the IPL uses heat to do its thing.  If a wrong setting or energy intensity is used, you could end up with burns that can cause permanent discoloration and scars.  I have heard multiple horror stories from those that went to someone who didn’t have enough experience.

To have the best outcome, you need to see someone who knows the machine well and what settings to use.  Make sure to do your research before diving in!

HOW MANY TREATMENTS WILL I NEED?

Some people see great results after the first session, but usually 3 to 5 sessions are recommended, one month apart.

HOW DO I MAINTAIN MY RESULTS?

To maintain results, it is recommended to have an IPL treatment once to twice a year.

Of course, for maintenance, it’s also crazy important to protect your skin from the sun by wearing SPF 30 to 50 always!

One of my favorite sunscreens to use after IPL is  SkinCeuticals.  Both will not cause stinging or irritation on sensitive post-procedure skin.

Is There a Correct Order to Apply Your Skincare Products?

Is There a Correct Order to Apply Your Skincare Products?

by | Jul 7, 2022 | Healthy Skin, Skin Care Products, Skincare

Is There a Correct Order to Apply Your Skincare Products?

THE ANSWER IS YES!

Don’t you just love the right product that makes your skin feel soft and smooth? Or even better, one that is full of antioxidants or a sheer zinc-based product that protects you from the harmful rays of the sun? But if your routine has two or three or five products it can be tough to decide which goes on first (or second or third)!

WHY DOES THE ORDER YOU APPLY PRODUCTS MATTER?

You want to be sure your products to penetrate into your skin and do what they are meant to do. This can be a problem if you’re putting thin, fluid or water-based products on top of thick, creamy or oily ones. The richer products will form a barrier on your skin that will prevent the other products from getting through.

This in turn can make your products less effective.  If certain products aren’t able to absorb into your skin properly, you’re likely not getting their full benefits.

Skincare Products?

HERE ARE THE BASICS…

Water-based before oil-based products:

Start with your water-based products, such as toners and serums. Heavier, more moisturizing creams and oils come next, followed by sunscreen.

This makes sense because as we all know, oil and water don’t mix.  Oil acts as a barrier and will block a water-based product from penetrating into your skin.

Thinnest to thickest texture:

Apply lighter products before heavy ones.

If you have a couple of water-based products or serums they can be layered on top of each other, and there shouldn’t be an issue with the penetration of one versus the other.  When applying your moisturizing oil-based products begin with lighter lotions, then thicker moisturizers followed by oils.

In other words, apply those water-based products in any sequence you like, then oil-based products afterward.  Think of oil-based products as the icing on the cake!

WHAT IF YOU USE A TOPICAL PRESCRIPTION MEDICATION?

Once you throw prescription medications into the mix, application order becomes more important. Topical prescriptions such as retinoids, steroids, and antibiotics beat out cosmetic products every time, and you need to ensure you’re getting the full dosage of your topical medication. Any topical medication that has been prescribed for you should go on first after you cleanse (and tone – if you use a toner) because medicines are absorbed best when the skin is damp, and when there’s nothing between the skin and the medicine.

Applying a serum or moisturizer before a topical prescription medication basically dilutes your medication. That said, if you’re using something that’s known to be irritating (such as a retinoid, like retinol or Retin-A/tretinoin), and you have sensitive skin, I recommend mixing it with your moisturizer or putting it on after moisturizer to soften the blow a little.

An important side note that also pertains to prescription retinoids, is that some over-the-counter active ingredients can interfere with the effectiveness of retinoids when used during the same routine. In particular, benzoyl peroxide can deactivate certain retinoids when used at the same time.  If you use any benzoyl peroxide product and a retinoid, apply one in the morning and one at night.

WHAT ABOUT SUNSCREEN?

Most medical experts and scientists agree that sunscreen is always the final step in your daytime skincare routine. This is exactly how sunscreens are tested to earn their SPF rating: Nothing goes over them. Any skin care product you apply over a sunscreen dilutes and reduces its effectiveness.

Sunscreens are divided into two camps, physical and chemical. They work in two different ways, like a sponge or like a shield.

  • Physical sunscreens contain minerals (like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide) that create a barrier on your skin to block out harmful rays.

  • Chemical sunscreens (look for ingredients like oxybenzone, avobenzone, octisalate, octocrylene, homosalate, or octinoxate) absorb the sun’s rays.

When you mix your SPF with another medium like moisturizer, you run the risk of diluting your sunscreen’s effectiveness or canceling it out altogether.

I know I said oils go on last, but technically, sunscreen is the absolute last step. Your other products are working to penetrate and treat your skin, but sunscreen does not need to penetrate into your skin.  It’s there to protect your face and act as armor against the outside world.

Just make sure you are using an SPF of 30 or higher!

CAN MAKEUP GO OVER YOUR SUNSCREEN?

It is true that a foundation or tinted moisturizer will hide imperfections or discolorations on your skin best if it is the last thing you apply.  I’m often asked if applying foundation that doesn’t contain sunscreen over the sunscreen you’ve just applied will diminish the sunscreen’s ability to protect skin. It won’t if you follow these guidelines:

  • Wait 3–5 minutes for the sunscreen to set before applying foundation.
  • Apply the foundation in smooth, downward motions (no rubbing back and forth). You can also use a sponge or brush to gently press the foundation on.
  • Do not use excess pressure or over-blend.

DO YOU WANT TO AVOID MAKEUP ALTOGETHER? THEN USE A TINTED SUNSCREEN OR A CC CREAM WITH SPF TO DO BOTH JOBS AT ONCE!

Here are some of my favorites:

HERE IS THE RUN-DOWN STEP-BY-STEP:

(AND IT DOESN’T MEAN THAT YOU NECESSARILY NEED ALL OF THESE STEPS)

Step 1: Cleanse and/or exfoliate. You can learn more about exfoliating here.

Step 2: Use a toner, spray or essence

Step 3: Apply eye cream

Step 4: Use any topical prescriptions or spot treatments

Step 5: Apply antioxidant serum or retinol/Retin-A/tretinoin (night only)

Step 6: Apply moisturizer (thinnest to thickest)

Step 7: Apply face oil

Step 8: If in morning – apply your SPF/sun protection. Learn more about sun protection here.

Step 9: If wearing – gently apply makeup as to not disturb SPF

MORNING VS NIGHT?

Best to focus on products that “protect” your skin—SPF, primers, BB and CC creams—for the morning time, and “correct” your skin in the night, such as heavier moisturizers and retinol products. The “correcting” or treatment products will stay on your skin longest with nighttime application. And your skin needs the protective products during the day to help fight against damaging sun rays and pollutants.

BTW – antioxidant serums both protect and correct, so they can be used morning or night! I use a vitamin C serum (Evolve 20% Vitamin C Serum) in the morning and Evolve HA serum twice a day.

Evolve Vitamin C Serum

Evolve 20% Vitamin C Serum

(with ferulic acid, vitamin e, and botanical HA)

Evolve HA Serum

Evolve Advanced HA Serum

(with antioxidants and organic green tea extract)

Learn more from Dermatologist Pauli Morrow from Evolution Dermatology

Pauli Morrow, MMSc, PA-C

The bottom line…

Using skin care products should be gratifying and make you feel good about your skin! Don’t stress about it too much, sticking to a precise application order ultimately won’t make or break your skin-care routine.

If you are using a prescription product, always check with your derm provider before introducing a new product to make sure it’s compatible with your topical meds. You want to ensure that your prescription will most effectively treat what it is intended to!

If your routine is just for fun or self-care, just do your best and don’t agonize over the details too much!